Sunday In the Garage.

I got a little time to work on Scout-related stuff this weekend, and it felt good to make some progress. Because I couldn’t leave the house on Saturday, I worked on the spare dash in the basement. I got the entire thing disassembled except for the washer control and spent an hour cleaning about a pound of swamp mud from the backside of the sheet metal.

filthy
filthy

When it was dry, it didn’t look like it was in bad shape at all. There was some surface rust and some corrosion on all surfaces, though, so I went at it with some fine-grit sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease.

washed
washed

When it was cleaned up enough for my liking, I hit it with some automotive primer to see if I’d missed anything; it turned out much better than I’d expected. I have to wet sand it down before I hit it with the finish coat of satin black, but I’m really pleased with the results. I can’t wait to put it all back together.

filthy
primed

Out in the garage on Sunday, I started pulling the old fan shroud off to get a better look at the fan assembly, and one half of it fell off. From what it looks like, after the PO added a 2″ body lift, the radiator moved in relation to the fan—and the coolant hose on top. In order to fit the shroud under the hose and over the fan blades, he chopped the bottom half off and then must have snapped the shroud in two to fit underneath. Or, perhaps the shroud came into contact with the heat from the hose and snapped on its own. Either way, it’s off now; I’ll use it as a template for the new shroud mounts and then toss the pieces.

filthy
original fan shroud

It turns out the dead headlight was only playing dead; I fooled with the connector a while and found that there’s a dead spot on the female side. I’ll have to read up on how to clean the contact inside the plastic housing.

Finally, I bought a 25′ length of flexible HVAC hose and hooked it to the second tailpipe, primed the carb and turned her over for about 5 minutes, long enough to get some water out of the tailpipes and scoot her back a foot or so. I have to tighten up the hose so the exhaust doesn’t blow it off and open the other windows, but it sure felt good to hear that thing turn over again.

Parts is Parts.

After a long while away from working on my Scout, I was able to break away for a few hours yesterday to visit Mr. Soundman and pick over the carcass of his parts truck. He’s got this one down to the bare bones now, so that makes two rolling frames-with-engines parked in his driveway, and he’s getting nervous about getting it out of there.

I immediately set to work on the dashboard, because I knew it would take the longest amount of time to remove. Little did I understand just how complicated it actually would be. Apart from the retaining screws he’d already removed, there are a million electrical connections and a handful of mechanical controls to disconnect, which take a ton of time to figure out. We wound up separating the wiring from the dashboard altogether just so that we could get it out, which ordinarily would have given me heart attacks—now that it’s out, how do I put everything back together?!?

Backup dashboard
Backup dashboard

But I’ve got an ace up my sleeve: Mr. Scout and his father took the dash out of Chewbacca a lot slower and more deliberately than we did, and it’s currently being stored in my garage, so I can take copious notes and photos of what an unmolested dash with intact wiring should look like.

Upon closer inspection, this dash is in reasonably good shape, although it’s covered in mud, faded from sun exposure, and surface rusting in places. The whole thing needs a wash, then sanding, priming and paint. Retaining the stock green is not going to happen, so I’m going to have to go with black instead—along with the two metal door panels I’ve got. The included hardware looks like it’s recoverable, although the more complex light and wiper assemblies need to be cleaned and tested.

Recovered loom
recovered loom

The loom is in good shape as well, although I need to compare it closely to Chewbacca’s loom to be sure. I didn’t see any backwoods splicing or creative uses of romex, which leaves me hopeful but cautious. I’m currently debating buying a new wiring harness for the whole thing or just using what I’ve got, but common sense is pointing towards the cheaper of the two options.

water pump assembly
water pump assembly

Another big score was the water pump. After removing four bolts, Mr. Soundman handed me the entire assembly from the pump forward, which means I’ve got a non-clutch fan as well. The pump blades were covered in rust and scale, so I went at everything with a scraper last night to clean up the housing, as well as remove the ancient paper gasket. I’ve got a new gasket waiting at the parts store down the street, so at some point this week, I’ll get to work on removing the existing pump.

Finally, the other big score was a new fan shroud to replace the hack-job I’ve got: the PO did a body and suspension lift, which moved the fan blades up in relation to the body (and therefore the radiator). So, he did what countless other Scout owners have done in the past: he chopped the lower half of the shroud completely off, making the airflow to the coolant substantially less focused. I’m going to fabricate up some spacers for the new shroud and mount it properly to the radiator so that the engine doesn’t run excessively hot—and, thankfully, I’m already removing the fan to replace the water pump.

VIN decoding.

UPDATE 8.12.24: Looks like the VinWiz tool I linked to here is down, and I have no idea if it will ever be back up. I can’t decode VIN numbers myself, so you’ll have to reach out to the Wisconsin Historical Society for deeper info.

One of the questions I’ve had about my FrankenScout since I got it has been what is original and what isn’t. I have the VIN from the title and the plate (which is screwed into the driver’s A pillar), and which most likely comes from the body itself. But what about the frame? is it original or a donor? If I send in for a lineset ticket, will it even be relevant to the jumble of parts I’ve got?

Browsing through Binder Planet last night, I stumbled on a post about the location of the frame serial and how it’s keyed to the last 8 digits of the VIN, so I picked up a scraper and headed out to the garage. I first looked in the wrong place (back behind the B body mount), but then found the right location after scraping off some engine grease: right in front of the driver’s firewall, forward of the hoist port, on the vertical rise.

Frame VIN
Frame VIN

As it turns out, the VIN screwed to this truck does not match the frame. Big surprise. Using a VIN decoder linked from the BP, the tub correctly dates to a ’76 model Scout II. But when I drop the eight numbers from the frame (Year, Plant, Line, serial) in front of the first five from the body (Model Year/Unused/Model/Model/Engine), I come up with a 1979 model year frame. Curious.

I suppose I could spend $100 on a lineset ticket to see if the VIN I’ve got on the title matches the tub (I know the original color of this tub, which is always on the lineset ticket), but its current location and method of attachment leads me to believe it may be from a third donor vehicle—one that had a clear title, and made it easy to register—and that would be money wasted.

UPDATE: Given the amount of people landing here, I should be clear in saying I’m not the author of the tool, I’m just linking to it. If you’ve got a 7-digit VIN, it won’t work for you (this rules out most Scout 80s and 800s, I think). Your best bet is to contact the Wisconsin Historical Society directly, or one of the Light Line Dealers listed in this link. Good luck!

UPDATE UPDATE: Folks, I don’t know how to decode 7-digit VINs. If you’re looking for more information on Scout 80/800’s, Click here to the Binder Planet, where there’s a serial number list available for download.

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Weekend Tinkering.

This weekend was in the low 70’s, and between spending time with my daughter and doing a ton of overdue yardwork, I took some time to fool around in the garage. The first order of business was to clean out the space and organize everything better; the back half of the garage has been used for a no-man’s land for years, and thus was piled randomly with junk. I’m also storing a bunch of parts for Mr. Scout, which demanded better accommodations, so I swept, organized, and cleaned up the entire bay.

Next, I wanted to pull the panels off my donor doors and see what shape they were in. It looks like they’re reasonably clean, although everything suffers from light surface rust and needs a good wash. The door pulls and window cranks are both clean, but one foam armrest is toast and the other is marginal. I also pulled what looks to be an original rearview off the driver’s door and took steel wool to the grime covering the chrome; it cleaned up better than I hoped it might.

CAUTION

On the sad side, the liftgate is rusted out beyond economical repair; every time I moved it I left piles of rust in my wake, so I’ll just strip the parts off and ditch the frame.

Finally, I got a strange urge to pull the dashpad off for examination. Someone paid a good deal of money to cover a cracked green foam pad with blue vinyl, ruining the foam with staples and glue. Hopefully the pad Mr. Soundman’s offered me is in better shape than this one.

Parts Haul.

This weekend, Mr. Scout took me to the magical, mystical wonderland of cheap Chinese tools: the local Harbor Freight retail store. It’s amazing how much incredible stuff they can jam into one small location, and how cheap everything is. I wouldn’t buy sockets there and trust them to last more than a year, but to have a throwaway set handy the prices can’t be beat. I took a coupon with me and scored a 4½” angle grinder for $20. Mr. Scout settled for a torque wrench and we both left before we could do any more damage.

Meanwhile, Mr. Soundman made a journey to Virginia to pick up a donor Scout and a load of parts in a box truck. He graciously offered extra space to anybody who needed parts, so I took him up on the offer.

He brought me back two doors with hinges, mounting brackets, full glass, metal inserts and hardware:

spare door

Under the doors were a traveltop in decent shape, minus the original liftgate and with some minor rust issues along the back lip area, a liftgate with good hinges, and a step bumper with some minor bending issues.

Finally, there was a plastic tray containing an assortment of hard-to-replace plastic lenses for marker and indicator lights, some door hardware, and miscellaneous other items:

lighting spares

Of course, the weather turned frigid on Saturday, and it started snowing Sunday evening, so any playtime I might have enjoyed this weekend was put on hold. I got everything besides the top indoors and hunkered down for the blizzard. Maybe next week…

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