I didn’t get much done on anything over the weekend, but I did get about a half an hour to take care of two things I was looking forward to: installing my new hood strut and re-attaching the rearview mirror to the windshield.
The strut took a little bit of understanding to complete, as the directions were basic text and included only two pictures, but I was able to understand the basic concept and get things aligned pretty quickly. The original spring-loaded pin gets removed. The new bracket goes in over the existing fender bolts. Then there’s a two-bolt bracket that installs in the original pin rail on the hood, and a plastic standoff that attaches to the top of the gas piston. Once I’d sorted that out I adjusted the length of the piston and then tightened everything down. It’s a world of difference and it means I can close the hood from the driver’s side instead of walking around each time.
The rearview mirror went in quickly, and this time I glued the clip on right-side up (last time I did it upside-down). Hopefully the Permatex kit will hold better than the 3M kit did.
Finally, I took a look at the heater valve in the engine bay while I had the hood open. It’s been stuck open forever, which means even when the fan is off it’s blowing hot engine air into the passenger compartment. I was going to soak it with PBBlaster again in the hopes that I could get it to move, but first I tried closing it with my hand—and it moved! Interestingly, the slide control on the dash is impossible to move, so I guess there’s something frozen or stuck closer to the dashboard. Either way, it’s closed for now.
Mike C. sent me a link to this Scout II Dana 44 Rear Disc Brake Conversion Kit, which is several hundred dollars less than I’ve seen in other places. This is on the list of things I’d like to do to Peer Pressure when money isn’t so tight.
Update: looks like the original vendor is gone. I’d go with a couple of the Light Line vendors instead–both of whom have been active in the IH community for years:
D&C even has an instructional video, which is excellent.
Here’s a fantastic rundown of information about rebuilding Thermoquad caruretors from the Binder Planet, with part numbers. The important stuff:
1. Rebuild Kit. I use a GP Sorensen part number 96-246C kit, costs approx. $37.
2. Floats. I use two GP Sorensen part number 779-1726. These are nitrophyl floats. I have found that the brass floats sold for the T-Q will fit the fuel bowl, but are not the correct shape to work properly and could not be adjusted to work properly. The Nitrophyl floats work quite well. Good ones weigh 7.5 to 8.0 grams.
Here’s a great thread on the Binder Planet about D44 Rear Disc Brake installation where the bracket was welded onto the axle flange. Further down in the thread there’s a parts list for a bolt-on solution, which is more my speed, but the combined price list is about $700.
This looks like it could be a good upgrade: WHITE 4 point 194 style LED replacement bulb – Whitegauges.net. At $5 a pop, it’s an expensive proposition, but knowing how difficult it is to get into the dash, I’d rather only do this once. Especially if the light they throw is brighter than incandescent bulbs.
Update- from the comments below, I pulled this link, which is for ten bulbs. Hmmm…
The belts and plate holder are ordered!
Via Mr. Scout, here’s the set of belts I’m going to buy for Peer Pressure, and I’m also going to need this kit for the floor mounts. He used these lights for his license plate, which looks to be a good solution; I need to find a bracket of some kind that I can mount to the swingarm on the right side and then fish the wires through.
Update: Bass Pro Shop has a zinc coated bracket for the low low price of $4.99. There’s also this one, which doesn’t require separate bolts, or this one.
I’m realizing my wipers are pretty much shot, and the original TRICO arms my Scout came with are crap. Most of the things I’ve found say I need to butcher a set of new blades to fit my old arms. I think that I’m going to order a new wiper arm and see if I can get that to fit; the part number is ANCO 41-03 and it’s currently $10 at Rock Auto.
Two quick things: I got a pair of Fel-Pro donuts (60478) for the manifold leak last week; now I need to get some time to install one. (New company policy around here: When buying parts, buy two, use one, and put the second into storage).
Secondly, I had to kill a little time with Finn, so I brought her out to the garage with me and put the soft top back on. According to Peer Pressure, summer is officially over. But having the soft top on leads me to one of my next projects: adding snaps to the soft top frames around the windows. I picked up a snap repair kit from West Marine a month ago. The plan is to screw male snaps into the frames and add female snaps to the underside flap so that the flaps will stay in place; I have to wait for a warm day and pick up a good metal bit for the drill to get started.
Here’s a great little post on the BP about tire size equivalents. Currently I’m running a set of 32×11.5R15 BF Goodrich Mud Terrains, but I’d like to set them aside for a smoother road-going tread at some point. It looks like 16″ tires are more plentiful, so the first thing I’d need is a set of four rims to mount tires on. I’d been led to believe I would need something like an LT315/70R15, but the BP thread is saying a 265/75R16 would work on a 16″ rim and sit at the same height as a 32″. Which would mean that a set of four Dunlop Radial Rovers (the brand I preferred on Chewbacca) would be about $118/tire.