Search Results for: wiper motor

Wow, I actually knocked a lot of stuff off the 2018 to-do list. Tires, Hagerty insurance, and Hydroboost are all some big accomplishments compared to years past. I’m feeling pretty good about everything, and Peer Pressure is running strong. Still, there’s more that can be done:

  • Buy a new aluminum radiator and install it. Climbing the hills out of West Virginia I noticed the temp gauge climbing perceptibly, something I’ve never seen it do since I replaced the water pump 9 years ago. The overflow bottle isn’t hooked up because the nipple at the filler neck came unbrazed years ago, and the cooling system needs a flush anyway. Done!
  • Oil and gear oil change. It’s been 8 years since the first one, and even though mileage is low, she could use some new fluids.  Done! This time I’m going to put Rotella 15W-40 diesel in, for the additional zinc. I didn’t use Rotella, however.
  • Sandblast, paint and install my spare set of valve covers. I’ve got a truck valve cover set with a long filler neck, and now that the Hydroboost is installed I can actually use them. This will make the addition of oil easier (and cleaner).
  • Buy caster shims and install them. There’s more work to do to fix the new steering issues. Done!
  • Fix the heater linkage so that the heater actually shuts off. The valve in the engine compartment is stuck open, and needs some work to loosen up.
  • Fix the windshield wiper motor mount and linkage. The wiper arm on the passenger side is too low and strikes the edge of the windshield, and the whole thing is very slow.
  • Buy a 4×10 speaker and install it in the dash. So that I can hear the stereo at speed. Done!
  • Re-route the speaker wire. This has been needed for 9 years.
  • Rebuild the spare carburetor (finally).
  • Buy a hood gas strut and install it. It would just be so much easier to open and close the hood this way. Done!

Previous yearly to-do lists

Date posted: September 9, 2018 | Filed under To-Do List | 3 Comments »

Nothing much to report around here. I dug out three spare wiper motors and brought them inside to the bench for winter work. The Scout was out for a brief errand this afternoon before the rain and wind hits. I put the top on tight, rolled up the windows, and battened down the garage, hoping that Sandy passes us by.

Wiper Motors

4 Speed

Date posted: October 27, 2012 | Filed under Future Plans | Leave a Comment »

Now that things are getting cold outside, I’ve got to focus on things I can do inside. One thing that’s been bugging me since they stopped working are my wipers, which has proven to be problematic when it rains. I’ve got two spare wiper motors in my stash to work with and a can of electrical cleaner; I need some bearing grease to repack the interior and a clear set of instructions as to how.

1. My first clues about wiring are on the Binder Planet here:

It is a three wire motor with the common being the internal ground.
The wires to and from the Scout switch are:
82 +12 hot
82A +12 after going through breaker, feeds the park switch on the wipers, ( Green wire on Wiper plug) and hot into the switch.
82 B feeds high speed on the wipers, ( Black wire on wiper plug.)
82 C feeds low speed on wipers, (Red wire on wiper plug. )
A 187 goes to washer motor, on this setup, I have here, it`s a green wire, the rest of the wires are black..
The Scout switch in low speed position closes the circuit from 82 A to both 82 B and 82 C wires,
In high speed it closes the circuit from 82 A to 82 B only.


Check for frozen/binding linkage, especially the wiper pivots. Also running a separate ground from the motor case to the body helps, lots of times the ground path through the motor mounts isn’t very good and gets fixed accidentaly during motor replacement.

2. Key information for inside bench testing is here:

I would clean the inside good with electric parts cleaner. Then bench test it with a battery charger.
Trickle charge 2 amp for low, and 10 amp fast charge for high.

So, if and when I ever get some free time, this will be my next project.

Date posted: October 11, 2012 | Filed under Repairs | Leave a Comment »

So, now that the carb is working correctly, I’m looking at small, inexpensive things that I can accomplish next on a tight time and money budget. There are a ton of things that are crying out to be worked on, unfortunately.

job cost
Pull the windshield cowl, pull the wiper motor, and replace with a working unit. rebuild replace $???
Disconnect and pull out the A/C dash unit (for easier access to the dash electronics) $0
Swap out the dash plastics with replacements $0
Pull the emergency brake assembly, wire wheel it, repaint, and replace $0
Take the old mirror off the door and replace it with the stock mirror – SSII mirror installed 9/1/12 $40
Replace wires and plugs with the new set in the garage. – Installed 8/19/12 $0
Buy some Peel & Seal and apply to the trans tunnel and firewall. $25
Buy some kind of carb soak and dunk the spare Holley 2300 in it for an initial cleaning. $10
Borrow a welder from someone and weld in some angle iron to the bases of the bucket seats $?
Paint, mount, and install the original bucket seats $0
Re-route and run new heavy speaker wire, solder all connections and heatshrink $0
Degrease the engine $0
Fix the emergency brake release handle Mostly done; might need to replace the handle $40
Buy a new fuel tank sender, J hooks, gas lines, drop and replace the gas tank, diagnose the gauge issues $70 + hoses
Pull the driver’s door apart (again) and replace the scissors mechanism (again) $0
Pull the speakers and install foam baffles $0
Replace both battery cables. $0
Buy a can of engine degreaser and clean the firewall. $8
Pick up a box of ten dash bulb sockets and bulbs and replace everything in the dash that doesn’t work. (gauges done 1/11, speedo still needs work) $15
Grind out the rust in the passenger floor, interior wall, and door flanges, then POR-15 and cover with some kind of finish coat. $25
Pull the radio from the Jeep and install it in the Scout. $0
Put a pair of inexpensive 6×9 speakers in the rear fenders $30-50
Drop the third rear bench seat in and see if it fits.
Date posted: July 12, 2010 | Filed under Future Plans, Repairs | 1 Comment »

Short-term plans (mostly involving time and a little money)

  • Replace and fix the dashboard lighting
  • Fix the radio while the dash is out
  • Continue chasing down the fuel sender issue
  • Correctly seat the windshield wiper motor
  • Vacuum out all the crud in the fenders (through the cowl or remove the fenders)
  • Add locking lug nuts
  • Reroute the speaker wires Done! April 2020
  • Fix the loose handle on the passenger’s side
  • Replace solid windows in the traveltop with sliders
  • Weatherproof the new top
  • Clean the soft top, clean the windows
  • Replace the steering wheel
  • Go through the mechanicals in under the hood and check everything out.
  • Repair the hole in the soft top
  • Clean up the windshield glass, inspect the cowl and see if it’s in worse shape than the one I’ve already got
  • Clean and reinstall all the gasketry on the firewall
  • Wire brush the spare windshield frame to see how bad the cancer is
  • Replace the windshield wipers with modern blades
  • Get it in the garage.
  • Get it registered, tagged, and insured (probably with historic plates).
  • Change all the fluidscoolant, oil, diff oil changed 9/09
  • Change the plugs and wires — plugs and wires purchased 10/09, installed 8/12
  • Clean out the tub and wire-brush all the rusty sections. Bedliner sprayed 9/13
  • POR-15 everything that even looks like it might rust. Bed and walls coated 9/13
  • Pad the rollbar with some pipe insulation and ziptiesAdded an original rollbar cover and pads, 4/13
  • Pull out the bikini top and check the fit
  • Ground the rear lights correctly so that the indicator goes out
  • Replace the dead headlight
  • Get the windshield wipers and washer squirters working
  • Clean up, re-grease, and replace the window scissor mechanisms, latches, and locks. Then reinstall the door panels.
  • Buy a new set of Service ManualsChristmas gift, 2011
  • Pick up a good come-along in lieu of a winch

Long-term plans (mostly involving lots of time and money):

  • Coat the underside with bedliner
  • Spray it with some color other than purple
  • Add some kind of heat reflective matting.
  • Sand the high points in the paintjob down, and get it ready for a new color
  • Pull the dashboard, strip it, and repaint (or replace)
  • Yank out the nasty seats and replace themBucket bases purchased, PT Cruiser seats installed 3/15
  • Find a good rust-free steel hardtop. Purchased 3/13
  • Buy a new gas tank and sender, drop the old one and install the new one Installed 6/11
  • Buy a Hi-Lift jack so I might actually be able to change a tire
  • Coat the interior with some sort of bedliner (Line-X, Rhinoliner, etc). Installed 9/13
  • Buy some new weatherstripping for the doors and tailgate Installed 10/13
  • Replace the inner door liners with originals (or repaint the purple ones)
  • Pull the dashpad and put in a replacement — black replacement installed 10/09
  • Replace the stupid radio with a cheap removable-faceplate version, install some cheap speakers in the 6×9 cutouts
  • Buy a Tuffy console for in between the seats and install it
Date posted: June 16, 2010 | Filed under | 2 Comments »

Driver’s fender – fair condition, white
Passenger fender – good condition, blue
Passenger fender – excellent condition, Tahitian Red
Passenger’s inner fender
Driver’s inner fender
1972 grille with chrome – Excellent condition
Tailgate – Tahitian Red, excellent condition
Early dashboard, repainted and cleaned (non-plastic fusebox)
Green dashpad – excellent shape (cleaned)
Green dashpad – fair shape
Windshield – with glass, wiper motor, wiper linkage
Windshield – with wiper motor
Cowl cover – white
Driver’s door – good condition, Tahitian Red
Passenger’s door – good condition, Tahitian Red
Driver’s door – poor condition, Tahitian Red w/decal
Passenger’s door – poor condition, Tahitian Red w/decal

Date posted: February 20, 2010 | Filed under | 2 Comments »

Not a whole lot of time to play with the Scout this weekend, but I did a few things worth noting:

I picked up eight Autolite 303 plugs at the local NAPA. I wasn’t positive my distributor took female ended wires, so I held off on them (it does) as well as buying oil and a filter. I think I’ll wait until next week for that purchase. (I spent about $100 on wires and plugs for the other two cars, so I’m trying to stay on budget here). I have to preorder the wires, but that’s no big deal. I’ll preorder the oil filter while I’m at it. In the bad news department, the cap to the distributor is loose and comes off easily with a tug. That can’t be good.

Update: My friend Alan tells me Autolite 303s are no good and that I need 85’s, which is what the good BinderPlanet told me in the first place. Lesson learned: never believe the NAPA computer.

I then tore the dashboard down to swap out the fuel gauge out with another unit in order to see if it’s the gauge or the sender. It’s the sender. While I was in there, I looked at swapping out the nasty dash cover with a cleaner one—I have four spares in various conditions. It turns out I’ll have to cut one of the spares in order to fit a standard-size radio, or simply pull the radio out altogether and wait for a Tuffy console at a later date. There are no speakers in the rig right now, so I’m leaning towards pulling the radio, which would be one less thing to worry about when parking in public.

I also tried swapping the glovebox door with a spare I’ve got which has a better latch, but again, I was foiled. I couldn’t get the better latch to come apart, and subsequently off the door. So I pulled the original door and put the spare on: no dice. The catchplate on the inside of the glovebox doesn’t like the latch, and the sheetmetal is too small for the larger catchplate. Rats!

Finally, I returned to Wheaton to pick up the rest of the parts I’d left behind on my first trip, and in the interim, the seller had chopped the rest of the cancerous body from the frame and hauled it off for scrap.

More parts

However, he was kind enough to do a lot of saving for me, and thoughtful enough to set aside a bunch of items he thought I might like:

  • The radiator (which I had to leave behind last time)
  • The dash pad (which I forgot last time) – it’s in excellent shape save two small tears on the passenger side.
  • Both door window regulators
  • Complete sets of door glass-butterfly and main, with tracks
  • Both door latch mechanisms
  • Both door lock mechanisms
  • Two doorhandles in very good shape (no pitting on the chrome)
  • Passenger knee vent
  • The entire dashboard, with intact loom, heater plastic, and switches (!)
  • The bottom section of the cowl vent, with the wiper motor and arms attached
    Plastic auto transmission shift cover
  • One taillight lens bucket

The regulators are in far worse shape than I’d hoped; I was going to refurb them and swap them in, but the bottoms are rusted pretty good. The dash is in good shape, as are the windows and mechanicals. The radiator is the worst part of the lot, though—the bottom panel has come loose from the main assembly, so I’ll have to see if that can be repaired at all.

Overall, for the amount of money I spent, I did exceptionally well. I’ve got a handful of hard-to-replace specialized parts stored away now, and spares of other things which may wear out or be damaged over time.

Date posted: July 12, 2009 | Filed under Progress, Purchasing | Leave a Comment »

Whenever I stumble across helpful information, I try to save it someplace locally, due to the ever-shifting nature of the internet. I’ve reprinted good information here and link-attributed it wherever applicable; if anyone has an issue with this policy, please feel free to contact me.

How to remove windows from the doorframe:
Take the inner door skins off, remove the bolt which holds the wing window frame (it’s behind the chrome button below the wing window). At the front of the door there are 2 holes. Using a 1/4 drive rachet set remove the 2 bolts – be careful not to let them drop, then lift the wing window frame out of the door, then wind down the glass and remove the 2 clips on the mechanisim at the glass, and lift out the glass. You may have to remove the wind seal rubbers at the top of the door to get it to clear. [link to thread] [link to illustrated guide]

Windshield Frame Removal:
On a Scout II, there are the 4 screws in the top that go into the roof. Then, there are four bolts behind the upper door hinges that come out. Then, there are two bolts that are above the upper door hinges, that thread vertically into the height adjustment for the w/s frame. Disconnect the wiper motor plug by the heater assembly, push the connection through the grommet. Then, open the doors and kick the top of the w/s frame backwards towards the cab area. It should go. If not, a prybar between the roof and the top of the frame will work to help seperate it. Once you get the w/s frame backwards a little bit at about a 30 degree angle, lift it straight up and it will come out easily. [link to thread]

Applying Herculiner (in kit format)

Dashboard lighting:
161, 14V, 1 cp/13 lumens, 4000 hrs
194, 14V, 2 cp/25 lumens, 2500 hrs
168, 14V, 3 cp/38 lumens, 1500 hrs –this is the stock bulb
3652, 13.5V, 6 cp/75 lumens, 700 hrs [link]

LED replacement lights – Amazon search

Basic Wiring Info:
The green wires are the ones for the dome light. The marker, running, and license plate lights are all the same circuit. Then you have the backup lights, L turn/brake, R turn/brake, and the fuel sender.

If you have the stubs of the OE wire connected to the bulkhead connector the cir numbers are as follows. #36 fuel level, #56 L turn/brake, #57 R turn/brake #68 tail #71 back up. The #’s are printed on the wire near the connector in white. [link]

IH used color coding for their wiring:
green: 18ga
black: 16ga
white: 14ga
red: 12ga
blue: 10ga.

How to remove the wiper switch (newer knob style):
If it’s the older metal knob, there should be a set screw that locks it on. If it’s the newer style plastic knob, I think there is a small metal spring clip inside that locks the knob to the shaft. I think you have to pry the clip up slightly to remove the knob without breaking it. I’m not sure through, because the wiper knob on my 1980 Scout was all ready broken and would fall off by itself. [link]

[note:] I used a paint opener to access the spring-clip on mine.

How to remove the headlight switch:
Pull the knob all the way out as if you’re turning on the lights. There’s a small springloaded button on the underside of the switch housing behind the dash. Push the button in, and the knob will come out with the shaft attached. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to spin the retaining collar on the front of the dash; the switch will come out after that.
AC Delco P/N D1590

How to test the gas gauge before dropping the tank:
“Disconnect the battery and pull the fuel/amp cluster from the dash, don’t disconnect the plug just pull it out far enough to tighten the nuts, you will usually find them finger tight. Re-attach to the dash and see if it works.

If that doesn’t fix it the best way to test is to go to your local Radio Shack and get a pack of 10 and 33 ohm resistors. There is a disconnect at the rt rear of the truck for the wire leading to the sender. Disconnect that and connect a 10 ohm resistor to the harness side wire and a good clean ground. With that connected the gauge should read at the “F” +/- a needle width. Connect a 33 and 4 10 ohm resistors in series and connect those to the wire and ground that should make the gauge read “E” +/- a needle width. That will test the gauge and all the wiring.

If it fails the test there, you can test at the back of the gauge. The terminal on the rt side of the gauge is the one that goes to the sender. You need to be very careful testing there, because the wires that connect to the ammeter are always hot if the battery is connected.

While you are in there I recommend replacing the stamped steel nuts with brass ones. It is one of the first things I do when I get another IH. They are 10-32. I never disconnect the plug from the circuit board as the pins on the circuit board are somewhat fragile and can come out of the board when you disconnect the plug. Those pins being loose can also be a cause of the gauge not working.”

If a pin is damaged soldering is a good idea but that can be difficult some times. The other option for some of the connections is to use a ring terminal under the stud and splice that to it’s respective wire, by-passing the pins and connector. It is also important to note to only disconnect one nut on a gauge at a time to prevent it from moving around in the housing. The only insulation is a piece of cardboard, move the gauge out of center and the stud can short out on the housing.

[note:] I found this picture online.

Reconditioning the wiper bottle motor (if it isn’t rusted to oblivion like mine):
“The motor proved to have a small impeller, brass insert, and rubber seal complete with 2 O-rings on the motor shaft. One O-ring is the same diameter as the rubber seal, the other is much smaller, not much bigger than the motor shaft. The rubber seal is about 1/2 inch wide or so, and the underside (motor side) appeared to have been originally packed with grease; all that was left was some dried-up yellow spots. I removed all the components from the motor shaft.

Using a pliers and gentle force I was able to start the motor shaft turning. A few drops of water came out of a drain hole in the front cap of the motor. Within a few moments the shaft was turning somewhat freely, so I again used a battery charger to power up the motor. This time the motor spun up, and after about 30 – 45 seconds it was running smoothly.

I packed the motor side of the rubber seal with white lithium grease and reasembled the components on the motor shaft. Since I did not have rivits to re-attach the motor to the washer bottle, I used 6-32 bolts and nuts instead. 2 different lenghts are needed; the short one is about 3/4 inch and the long one is about an inch long. Using these nuts and bolts I reattached the motor to the wash bottle.

When reinstalling the wash bottle in the Scout keep in mind that 3 of the 4 bolts go into plastic inserts; the ground wire must be on the bolt (lower right as viewed from the driver’s side) that screws into the metal inner fender.” [link to thread]

Tracing Down Electrical Shorts: Disconnect both battery cables. Put your battery on a slow= trickle charge for several days if necessary to restore a full charge. Then connect your positive cable to the battery only. Leave the negative to dangle. Take a simple 12 volt incandescent light with alligator clip on one end and a probe on the other. Ensure that all switches, fans, radios, lights etc are turned OFF. Clip the alligator clip to the loose negative cable and stick the probe end to your negative battery terminal. Bet it lights up brighter than Christmas, don’t it? Praise be! Now, reach up under your dash and remove just one fuse from the panel, then redo the battree probe. Lather, rinse, repeat one fuse at a time until you find the one what makes the test light stay dark. You’ve just isolated your problem circuit. Link to thread

Date posted: March 3, 2009 | Filed under | 13 Comments »


In 2021, I did a lot of things I wasn’t planning on, but needed to get done, like rebuilding the front bearings, replacing the front brakes, installing a cool bumper and then adding fog lights. Okay, maybe the bumper and fog lights didn’t need to happen, but it sure looks better. Reviewing the T0-Do list from 2021, there are some big things I thought I might be able to accomplish and some that were blue-sky goals; there will be some things that carry over to next year. And I’ve got some new goals for 2022, in order of importance and realistic accomplishment:

  • Replace the windshield. (2016) I pulled a good clear windshield from a Scout this summer, cleaned it up and made it ready to put in. I’ll need to order a new windshield gasket from Super Scouts, do some practice runs on the spare frames I’ve got, and then take a deep breath before I remove the old glass.
  • Fix the goddamn wipers. (2019) I still don’t know what the deal is with the wipers or why the motor works but the switch doesn’t, but I’ve now got a third switch to swap in and see if I can get things to work behind the dashboard. If it’s not that, there has to be a melted wire somewhere that I’ll have to chase down in the rat’s nest back there.
  • Fix the turn signal cam on the steering wheel. I’m 3/4 of the way into the teardown on my spare wheel, and it all seems to make sense so far. Sure would be nice to have functional cancelling turn signals.
  • Rotate the tires. This is pretty self-explanatory, and should be easy once I get a decent floor jack. One thing I’d like to do while I have the tires off is measure the backspacing on the spare tire to see if it’s anywhere near the aftermarket wheels I’m running on the truck. This way I’ll know if I can use the spare on the front wheels without rubbing.
  • Pull the spacer on the starter. I’ve come to find out the spacer in between my starter and the engine block is meant for automatic transmissions, so it needs to come out. I’m a pro at swapping starters at this point, so this should be a 30-minute fix, tops. Humorously, in going through my parts bins this week, I found a second spacer.
  • Fix the battery tray. (2021) Super Scout Specialists has new trays in stock, and I’d like to get rid of the ghetto bungee cord I’ve been using for 11 years.
  • Swap the gas tanks. I have the original steel tank Peer Pressure came with, and I’ve heard from several places that poly tanks will never seal at the sender properly. I’m inclined to believe this after eight years of suffering through gas fumes and leaks. The plan is to build a quick cradle/turntable out of wood, mount the tank on that, and dump some gravel inside. A half an hour of turning it like a cement mixer should remove any rust or scale inside, and then I can test it for leaks. When that’s done I’ll spray it with undercoating, test the sender, and put it in. I’m going to dig out the original evaporator linkage I stored away to aid in venting it properly. But the first thing I have to do is get the existing sender off the tank; it’s on there tight and not coming off.
  • Get the spare engine on a proper engine stand. The problem isn’t the stand, but how I can lift the engine up onto it. My garage is in no shape to support a chain hoist or any kind of overhead block and tackle, so I’ll have to borrow an engine hoist from somewhere for a 15-minute operation.
  • Buy a Scout Shed. My garage is pretty full, and I spend a lot of time reorganizing stuff just to move around in there. I’ve been considering a premade shed to store all of the parts I’ve got squirreled away, which would free up a lot of space in there. I’m earning some scratch on the side working on the schoolbus, and if I’m careful I could pay for this with a couple of weekends’ work.
Date posted: January 2, 2022 | Filed under To-Do List | 2 Comments »

I got back from Nationals with shitty front brakes, a leaky gas tank, and a bunch of new parts to play with. First, I made a couple of calls and got brake work under control.

The gas vent line was probably the easiest win, so I sourced a brass barb fitting from Lowe’s and 4′ of 3/8″ gas line from NAPA with a new plastic filter. Swapping out the brass plug for the barb was easy, and the gas line went on quickly. I brought the line up into the driver’s rear fender, gaining access through the cover behind the spare tire, and lopped off about 1′ of the hose. Capping that with the filter, I zip-tied it to the other vent hose to keep it upright and buttoned everything up. Hopefully the tank will vent a bit smoother now, at least until I can sort out the larger issue with the sender.

At Nats, Brian and I brainstormed a way to add snap barrels to the back of the tailgate so that I can snap the back of the soft top closed, and after I sourced the small hardware (6/32″ stainless screws and nylock nuts) I drilled into the aftermarket aluminum diamond plate. There’s a divot in the top of the tailgate that the nuts tuck into neatly without touching the sheet metal; it wasn’t until Brian pointed that out that I realized the solution was that simple. D’oh! (Now I have to get the zippers fixed).

That left the windshield wiper issue as the next big problem, which I was not looking forward to diagnosing. I also needed to re-align the wiper arms on the windshield, and a little research revealed they are simple to remove and easy to reinstall. Taking the cowl cover off confirmed my suspicion that the linkage from the motor to the wiper arm had come loose—this has happened before.

A trip to the Ace Hardware provided a quintet of e-clips in the right size, and I pulled the motor out completely to reattach the arm. Years ago I’d pulled it out and was never able to get it back in completely, so this time I focused on figuring out the secret trick of tucking the end of the bracket around the mount under the cowl. It’s now snugged tight with two bolts in the correct position. Then I had to fight to re-attach the first arm to the second linkage, which is always a treat.

With that done, I started diagnosing the wipers themselves; there is no response in the motor when I turn the switch at all. I have a 12-volt bench tester, so while the motor was out I confirmed that it’s not smoked; it revolved freely. A voltage tester hooked to the ground wire shows there’s no power coming through from the switch on the dash, so now I’m trying to pull the switch out and source a replacement.

While I was out on errands I stopped at the Harbor Freight to pick up a cheap stepped drill bit that went wider than 1″ diameter. The new glove box lockset from Binder Boneyard is a plastic barrel that’s much wider than the stock metal unit, so I had to open up the factory hole and grind off the two threaded studs on the backside of the glove box door. (Fun fact: I realized I have four spare glovebox doors when I went looking for another part in my bins).

This took all of about 15 minutes. Then I had to adjust the crappy metal tab I’d made to replace the catch on the inside of the glove box; apparently my dash is from a particularly boozy Friday shift in Fort Wayne, and does not feature the same loop catch found in all of the other Scout II’s I’ve ever seen or parted out. Once that was done and I had it fastened in the right place, the door closes snug to the dashboard and now features a lock! I’d like it a little more if it was made out of metal but for the price it can’t be beat, and anything that’s truly valuable is going to get locked into the Tuffy console or the ammo box in back anyway.

The final thing I did was to drill a single hole in the grille for my new (used) INTERNATIONAL badge, add some good 3M double-sided auto tape, and mount it to the sheetmetal in the proper position. She looks like a whole new truck!

Date posted: August 23, 2021 | Filed under Repairs | Leave a Comment »