{"id":3560,"date":"2023-03-03T07:25:33","date_gmt":"2023-03-03T15:25:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/?page_id=3560"},"modified":"2026-05-13T13:26:23","modified_gmt":"2026-05-13T21:26:23","slug":"travelall-to-do-list","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/travelall-to-do-list\/","title":{"rendered":"Travelall To-Do List"},"content":{"rendered":"

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This picture showed up in a related search for weatherstripping parts; it’s exactly what I’d like to do with the Travelall. This is the same year, model, and paint scheme I have. Seeing this now, I like the look of red steelies with the 60’s style IH moon hubcaps (of which I now own 3). I’ll have to find two more in good shape, as one of mine has a huge dent in the center. I also want to find a set of Western mirrors like these instead of the triangle door mounts that I’ve got. I can’t tell exactly but it looks like this one has a set of hiback buckets in the front, which I may go with instead of a period-correct bench seat; that way I could install a Tuffy console in between for some extra security.<\/p>\n

One step at a time…<\/p>\n

Replace the wing windows<\/strong>
\nI have three spare C-series wing windows that are in decent shape, but I’m always looking for a Loadstar being parted out for some better ones.<\/p>\n

Drain the radiator and flush it<\/strong>
\nI have no idea if it holds water, but it’s not currently leaking in the driveway. God only knows how long it’s been sitting, so it will definitely need a long flush to get the crud out. Makes me wonder how crusty the water pump is, too…<\/p>\n

Drain and refill the rear differential oil<\/del><\/strong> Done. The transmission shop did this when they worked on the running gear, and it’s nice and clean.<\/p>\n

Buy a new air cleaner<\/a> to replace the OEM oil bath unit<\/strong><\/del>
\nI was able to get one a couple of years ago and it’s worlds better than the old oil bath filter was.<\/p>\n

Get the rust and paint situation sorted out<\/del><\/strong>\u00a0I think what I meant to write here was repairing the rust in the front floorboards. The passenger side is done, and eventually I’ll get to the driver’s side.<\/em>
\nMost immediately, I have to diagnose and abate the rust on the floorpans. <\/p>\n

Clean up the rest of the exterior paint<\/strong>
\nThis is ongoing. I’ve been working on cutting and buffing the paint, with mixed results.<\/p>\n

Remove all of the extra added wiring <\/del><\/strong>\u00a0Mostly done 12\/24. There are still trailer brake lines at the hitch that need to be gone through, but the dash is clean. <\/em>There’s a trailer brake and aftermarket cruise control system<\/del> to be removed, and a set of external lights that were hacked onto the rear of the roof. I’m sure there are other surprises under the dash. Wish me luck.<\/p>\n

Continue repairing and mudding the spare fender<\/del> <\/strong>Done 6\/24. The spare fender has been repaired and is waiting for final paint. <\/em>This is going to require an upgrade to my body filler and some warmer weather.<\/p>\n

Order foam and burlap to rebuild and mount the seats<\/strong><\/del> Done 12\/24. It feels so good to have this complete.<\/em>
\nThis is going to be a springtime project I suspect; Jeff J. has the fabric and patterns, but said it’ll take a couple of months to get them finished.<\/p>\n

Drill and mount the new mirrors<\/a><\/del><\/strong> Done 10\/24. This wound up being more of a project than I thought but I’m really happy with the results.<\/em>
\nI have to clean up the outside of the doors a bit first, but this will make a big difference.<\/p>\n

Install the seat box<\/a><\/strong><\/del> Done 10\/24. It needs to be pulled out one last time, painted, and clear coated, but it’s basically done.<\/del>
\nThis will hopefully be just a single-day project.<\/p>\n

Find a used fuse block, add it, and rewire the truck<\/strong><\/del> Done 6\/24. This was both easier and harder than I was anticipating. It’s great to have 3\/4 of the lights working as designed; I’ve got more things to chase down.<\/em>
\nApparently someone cut the whole fuse panel out, so none of the electrical system works except for the starter. There are two ways to go here:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Rewire the whole truck with a Painless or Kwikwire kit<\/a>. I’d go with the 14-circuit kit and have some spare circuits for extra accessories.<\/li>\n
  2. Buy a premade wiring harness<\/a> and just plug it in.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Pull the heater box off and refurbish it<\/strong><\/del> Done 6\/24. I learned a ton about welding small patches and spraying automotive paint on this project. <\/del>
    \nI did this with a spare Scout box and it went pretty smoothly; the big thing here is pinching off the rad hoses to make sure they don’t leak coolant all over the driveway. From what I could see with the cowl off it looked like it’s in good shape, but I’d like to tear it down and clean it out.<\/p>\n

    Order and install new weatherstripping for the inside<\/a><\/strong> and outside<\/a> on the doors.<\/del> Done 10\/24. Not cheap, but worth the time and money.<\/em> This will also keep moisture out of the cabin.<\/p>\n

    Grind the rust out of the rain gutter<\/strong><\/del> Done 7\/24. The whole roof got cleaned up and painted, and it’s a million times better. It needs a shot of clear coat in the spring\u2014and maybe one more coat of white; we’ll see.<\/em>
    \nThis is a big one, and will span the entire roof. It’s rusty all the way around the perimeter and up on the roof by 2-3″, so it’s going to be a 2-3 day weekend project. There are large blooms of rust on the roof in random places as well, so I’m going to block out two days to cover the whole thing, prep it for paint, and hopefully shoot it in IH red.<\/p>\n

    Convert and encapsulate the rust in the rear wheel well<\/del><\/strong> Done 2023<\/em>
    \nI’ll probably grind it out with a wire wheel first and then treat the whole thing. The underside needs to have the undercoating scraped off and new undercoating applied.<\/p>\n

    Get a title<\/del><\/strong>
    \nThis starts with     the Vermont Loophole<\/a> and will provide plates and a registration<\/del>, which I can then trade in at the Maryland DMV for a title. \u00a0\u2014\u00a0Package mailed 2.25; Vermont plates in hand 3.13.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

    Gut the interior<\/del><\/strong>\u00a0Done<\/em>
    \nI did this on 2.25.23, and all of the old carpeting, upholstery, and headliner is gone.<\/p>\n

    Buy a battery<\/del><\/strong> Done\u20143.4.23<\/em>
    \nI talked to a guy on Marketplace who has a pretty NOS battery box that I’ll be installing; my guess is that I’ll have to replace the ground and other wires as we dig in.<\/p>\n

    Get the engine running off the boat tank<\/del> <\/strong>Done 4.24.23<\/em>
    \nIf we can get it running, then we’ll know the transmission situation and I can move it around the driveway.<\/p>\n

    Buy a service manual<\/del><\/strong> Done
    \nBinder Books has     reprints available for about $125<\/a>. This will help with key systems like the electrics.<\/p>\n

    Drain the engine oil and replace<\/del><\/strong> Done 4.29.23<\/em>
    \nI’m definitely going to put     Rotella diesel oil<\/a> in when it comes time; it has lots of nutrients and minerals for flat-tappet cams. I’m also going to send a sample away to Blackstone<\/a> for a readout on the engine’s health (after we get it running).<\/p>\n

    Replace the windshield<\/del><\/strong> Done 9.23<\/em>
    \nThis is pretty important, as there are several places where the rubber gasket is leaking, which is the cause of the front floorpans being so rusty. There are     new windows available for C-series trucks<\/a>, so I think this will be the next big purchase. I put the windshield in the Scout, but I don’t yet know how difficult it is to do for this truck.<\/p>\n

    Sort out the brake situation<\/del><\/strong> Pretty sure I’ve got this complete, as of 8.11.23.<\/em>
    \nI need to order a rebuild kit and new brake shoes based on what I’ve got, so the first order of business is to identify the brake system.\u00a0The front drums are \u00a0Raybestos 2316R’s, which is a common size; I was fearing these would be the dreaded Lockheed brakes, which are impossible to get parts for.<\/p>\n

    There are brake lines in the back but I don’t know if they make it all the way up front. I haven’t looked at the master cylinder yet either.<\/p>\n

    Get new tires<\/del><\/strong> Done as of 6.23. I’m pretty sure I have a viable 4th 16″ rim with a tire mounted.<\/em>
    \nThere are two new tires mounted to the front axle, but I still need two rear tires on the rear. I also need to source a 6-lug rim for the spare.<\/p>\n

    Rebuild the carburetor<\/del><\/strong> Done 4.24.23<\/em>
    \nIt’s a Holley 2300 with a manual choke; I’ll stick with what’s running now, but this is a prime candidate for an     aftermarket fuel injection update<\/a> sometime in the future. I have a rebuild kit in hand.<\/p>\n

    Identify the engine<\/del><\/strong> The lineset ticket says it’s a 304.<\/em>
    \nIt’s definitely an International V8. There is no stamp on the engine boss, which dates the block back to the ’60’s. The Lineset Ticket says it’s a 304, but I have to measure the distance between the heads to know for sure.<\/p>\n

    Rebuild the distributor<\/del><\/strong> Done 4.24.23<\/em>
    \nIt’s a     Delco cast iron unit<\/a>. Parts are available but I need to figure out exactly what to call it so I can make sure I’m getting the right thing. I’ve got a new set of points, a capacitor, new plugs and wires in hand.<\/p>\n

    Pull all of the A\/C stuff off the engine<\/del><\/strong>
    \nWe did this on 3.6.23. The compressor, canister, hoses, and radiator are gone.<\/em><\/p>\n

    Model-specific parts to be found:<\/strong><\/p>\n