{"id":5181,"date":"2025-04-11T13:18:23","date_gmt":"2025-04-11T21:18:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/?p=5181"},"modified":"2025-04-11T13:18:23","modified_gmt":"2025-04-11T21:18:23","slug":"resin-update","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/2025\/04\/11\/resin-update\/","title":{"rendered":"Resin Update"},"content":{"rendered":"

Here’s an update on the dealer badge project<\/a> I’ve had going for the last couple of months. When I last updated, I had poured a tin mold into silicone several times with limited success. Tin heats up fast and cools quickly, which makes it hard to pour into a mold\u2014especially a mold with lots of detail\u2014easily. So what I got was inconsistent and lumpy.<\/p>\n

So tried resin. I was concerned mainly about the effect of heat on the material I was using, so I looked for high heat resin. This took a couple of weeks to arrive from the UK. Mixing it up and pouring into the same mold I used with the tin, I got a decent first poor, but the resin was full of bubbles and very soft and malleable. I was concerned that it wouldn’t hold up to heat if I stuck it onto the body of my truck in the hot sun, so I researched hard resin.<\/p>\n

I found a kit on Amazon, and it only took a couple of days to get here. For the first pour, I tried was following the directions with a 1-1 ratio of the two components. The pour went fine, and after a few days of curing the final peace was very hard, to the point of being brittle. So much so that I wound up cracking off the D and U in the middle of filing it down.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Tin at the top, high heat resin under that, second resin 3\/4-1 below that, and 1-1 resin at the bottom.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I then mixed up another batch at a 3\/4-1 ratio. This yielded a good final piece, but with a lot more malleability than I wanted, and the mold was really showing the wear and tear\u2014there was a lot of dremel and trimming work required to make it look decent.<\/p>\n

This week I came back to the project and restarted by pouring a new silicone mold. I was more careful about how I prepared everything and only poured as much silicone as I needed. After letting that cure for two days, I carefully removed the 3D print from the silicone, making sure not to cut out any detail, and came away with a cleaner, more intact mold to work from.<\/p>\n

Using the second resin, I poured a 1-1 mixture and then added a little bit of the base to give it a slight amount of flexibility. Curing it overnight on a heating pad, I pulled it from the mold this morning and was very pleased with the results. There’s a lot more detail in this final piece, I had to do a lot less trimming and will barely need to do any Dremel work to clean it up. Basically, all that’s going to need is some light sanding, and if it hardens as it cures with a little bit of flexibility, this should be good to go.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The 3D print is at the top. The new silicone mold is on the right, and the newest resin piece is below that.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

So the next step, if this new piece works, will be to pour a few more, trying to make sure I fill the comma and period on the bottom. Then I can use some 3M auto adhesive tape to stick them onto each of the trucks.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Here’s an update on the dealer badge project I’ve had going for the last couple of months. When I last updated, I had poured a tin mold into silicone several times with limited success. Tin heats up fast and cools quickly, which makes it hard to pour into a mold\u2014especially a mold with lots of […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[19],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5181","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-design"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p58Ac2-1lz","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5181","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5181"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5181\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5184,"href":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5181\/revisions\/5184"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5181"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5181"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.billdugan.com\/scout\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5181"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}