Travelall To-Do List

This picture showed up in a related search for weatherstripping parts; it’s exactly what I’d like to do with the Travelall. This is the same year, model, and paint scheme I have. Seeing this now, I like the look of red steelies with the 60’s style IH moon hubcaps (of which I now own 3). I’ll have to find two more in good shape, as one of mine has a huge dent in the center. I also want to find a set of Western mirrors like these instead of the triangle door mounts that I’ve got. I can’t tell exactly but it looks like this one has a set of hiback buckets in the front, which I may go with instead of a period-correct bench seat; that way I could install a Tuffy console in between for some extra security.

One step at a time…

Continue repairing and mudding the spare fender
This is going to require an upgrade to my body filler and some warmer weather.

Buy a new air cleaner to replace the OEM oil bath unit
I emptied the oil bath air cleaner in the spring and it continues to leak oil all over everything whenever I’ve got to remove it to access the carb. A modern air cleaner would be much better than this.

Drill and mount the new mirrors
I have to clean up the outside of the doors a bit first, but this will make a big difference.

Replace the wing windows
I have three spare C-series wing windows that are in decent shape, but I’m always looking for a Loadstar being parted out for some better ones.

Order foam and burlap to rebuild and mount the seats
This is going to be a springtime project I suspect; Jeff J. has the fabric and patterns, but said it’ll take a couple of months to get them finished.

Install the seat box
This will hopefully be just a single-day project.

Drain the radiator and flush it
I have no idea if it holds water, but it’s not currently leaking in the driveway. God only knows how long it’s been sitting, so it will definitely need a long flush to get the crud out. Makes me wonder how crusty the water pump is, too…

Pull the heater box off and refurbish it
I did this with a spare Scout box and it went pretty smoothly; the big thing here is pinching off the rad hoses to make sure they don’t leak coolant all over the driveway. From what I could see with the cowl off it looked like it’s in good shape, but I’d like to tear it down and clean it out.

Find a used fuse block, add it, and rewire the truck
Apparently someone cut the whole fuse panel out, so none of the electrical system works except for the starter. There are two ways to go here:

  1. Rewire the whole truck with a Painless or Kwikwire kit. I’d go with the 14-circuit kit and have some spare circuits for extra accessories.
  2. Buy a premade wiring harness and just plug it in.

Remove all of the extra added wiring
There’s a trailer brake and aftermarket cruise control system to be removed, and a set of external lights that were hacked onto the rear of the roof. I’m sure there are other surprises under the dash. Wish me luck.

Get the rust and paint situation sorted out
Most immediately, I have to diagnose and abate the rust on the floorpans. I’ve got a jug of Eastwood Rust Converter for this very purpose; the idea is to stop it in its tracks and then hit it with Encapsulator until I can dig in to cutting it out and replacing everything. It’s wet because the seal around the windshield is leaking on that side; I can get new glass and rubber for it, so that will be first on the list. In the meantime I’ll plug the holes with caulk and call it good.

Order and install new weatherstripping for the inside and outside on the doors. This will also keep moisture out of the cabin.

Grind the rust out of the rain gutter
This is a big one, and will span the entire roof. It’s rusty all the way around the perimeter and up on the roof by 2-3″, so it’s going to be a 2-3 day weekend project. There are large blooms of rust on the roof in random places as well, so I’m going to block out two days to cover the whole thing, prep it for paint, and hopefully shoot it in IH red.

Clean up the rest of the exterior paint
There are a lot of areas to be addressed before I can do a $300 Maaco job. It’s going to take all summer, I’d figure.

Convert and encapsulate the rust in the rear wheel well Done 2023
I’ll probably grind it out with a wire wheel first and then treat the whole thing. The underside needs to have the undercoating scraped off and new undercoating applied.

Get a title
This starts with the Vermont Loophole and will provide plates and a registration, which I can then trade in at the Maryland DMV for a title.  — Package mailed 2.25; Vermont plates in hand 3.13. 

Gut the interior Done
I did this on 2.25.23, and all of the old carpeting, upholstery, and headliner is gone.

Buy a battery Done—3.4.23
I talked to a guy on Marketplace who has a pretty NOS battery box that I’ll be installing; my guess is that I’ll have to replace the ground and other wires as we dig in.

Get the engine running off the boat tank Done 4.24.23
If we can get it running, then we’ll know the transmission situation and I can move it around the driveway.

Buy a service manual Done
Binder Books has reprints available for about $125. This will help with key systems like the electrics.

Drain the engine oil and replace Done 4.29.23
I’m definitely going to put Rotella diesel oil in when it comes time; it has lots of nutrients and minerals for flat-tappet cams. I’m also going to send a sample away to Blackstone for a readout on the engine’s health (after we get it running).

Replace the windshield Done 9.23
This is pretty important, as there are several places where the rubber gasket is leaking, which is the cause of the front floorpans being so rusty. There are new windows available for C-series trucks, so I think this will be the next big purchase. I put the windshield in the Scout, but I don’t yet know how difficult it is to do for this truck.

Sort out the brake situation Pretty sure I’ve got this complete, as of 8.11.23.
I need to order a rebuild kit and new brake shoes based on what I’ve got, so the first order of business is to identify the brake system. The front drums are  Raybestos 2316R’s, which is a common size; I was fearing these would be the dreaded Lockheed brakes, which are impossible to get parts for.

There are brake lines in the back but I don’t know if they make it all the way up front. I haven’t looked at the master cylinder yet either.

Get new tires Done as of 6.23. I’m pretty sure I have a viable 4th 16″ rim with a tire mounted.
There are two new tires mounted to the front axle, but I still need two rear tires on the rear. I also need to source a 6-lug rim for the spare.

Rebuild the carburetor Done 4.24.23
It’s a Holley 2300 with a manual choke; I’ll stick with what’s running now, but this is a prime candidate for an aftermarket fuel injection update sometime in the future. I have a rebuild kit in hand.

Identify the engine The lineset ticket says it’s a 304.
It’s definitely an International V8. There is no stamp on the engine boss, which dates the block back to the ’60’s. The Lineset Ticket says it’s a 304, but I have to measure the distance between the heads to know for sure.

Rebuild the distributor Done 4.24.23
It’s a Delco cast iron unit. Parts are available but I need to figure out exactly what to call it so I can make sure I’m getting the right thing. I’ve got a new set of points, a capacitor, new plugs and wires in hand.

Pull all of the A/C stuff off the engine
We did this on 3.6.23. The compressor, canister, hoses, and radiator are gone.

Model-specific parts to be found:

  • Source a new passenger rear window—this will be one of the hardest and most expensive things to find.
  • Source a fuse block.
  • Source a new front bench seat (if I want to go authentic).
  • Source a rear bench—I have a line on one of these, but it’s at the other end of Massachussetts.
  • Find sun visors—I still need a passenger side visor.
  • Find a spare rim—it’s a wierd 16″ bolt pattern I haven’t dealt with before. Maybe someone at Nats will have one.