Parts is Parts.

After a long while away from working on my Scout, I was able to break away for a few hours yesterday to visit Mr. Soundman and pick over the carcass of his parts truck. He’s got this one down to the bare bones now, so that makes two rolling frames-with-engines parked in his driveway, and he’s getting nervous about getting it out of there.

I immediately set to work on the dashboard, because I knew it would take the longest amount of time to remove. Little did I understand just how complicated it actually would be. Apart from the retaining screws he’d already removed, there are a million electrical connections and a handful of mechanical controls to disconnect, which take a ton of time to figure out. We wound up separating the wiring from the dashboard altogether just so that we could get it out, which ordinarily would have given me heart attacks—now that it’s out, how do I put everything back together?!?

Backup dashboard
Backup dashboard

But I’ve got an ace up my sleeve: Mr. Scout and his father took the dash out of Chewbacca a lot slower and more deliberately than we did, and it’s currently being stored in my garage, so I can take copious notes and photos of what an unmolested dash with intact wiring should look like.

Upon closer inspection, this dash is in reasonably good shape, although it’s covered in mud, faded from sun exposure, and surface rusting in places. The whole thing needs a wash, then sanding, priming and paint. Retaining the stock green is not going to happen, so I’m going to have to go with black instead—along with the two metal door panels I’ve got. The included hardware looks like it’s recoverable, although the more complex light and wiper assemblies need to be cleaned and tested.

Recovered loom
recovered loom

The loom is in good shape as well, although I need to compare it closely to Chewbacca’s loom to be sure. I didn’t see any backwoods splicing or creative uses of romex, which leaves me hopeful but cautious. I’m currently debating buying a new wiring harness for the whole thing or just using what I’ve got, but common sense is pointing towards the cheaper of the two options.

water pump assembly
water pump assembly

Another big score was the water pump. After removing four bolts, Mr. Soundman handed me the entire assembly from the pump forward, which means I’ve got a non-clutch fan as well. The pump blades were covered in rust and scale, so I went at everything with a scraper last night to clean up the housing, as well as remove the ancient paper gasket. I’ve got a new gasket waiting at the parts store down the street, so at some point this week, I’ll get to work on removing the existing pump.

Finally, the other big score was a new fan shroud to replace the hack-job I’ve got: the PO did a body and suspension lift, which moved the fan blades up in relation to the body (and therefore the radiator). So, he did what countless other Scout owners have done in the past: he chopped the lower half of the shroud completely off, making the airflow to the coolant substantially less focused. I’m going to fabricate up some spacers for the new shroud and mount it properly to the radiator so that the engine doesn’t run excessively hot—and, thankfully, I’m already removing the fan to replace the water pump.

Parts Haul.

This weekend, Mr. Scout took me to the magical, mystical wonderland of cheap Chinese tools: the local Harbor Freight retail store. It’s amazing how much incredible stuff they can jam into one small location, and how cheap everything is. I wouldn’t buy sockets there and trust them to last more than a year, but to have a throwaway set handy the prices can’t be beat. I took a coupon with me and scored a 4½” angle grinder for $20. Mr. Scout settled for a torque wrench and we both left before we could do any more damage.

Meanwhile, Mr. Soundman made a journey to Virginia to pick up a donor Scout and a load of parts in a box truck. He graciously offered extra space to anybody who needed parts, so I took him up on the offer.

He brought me back two doors with hinges, mounting brackets, full glass, metal inserts and hardware:

spare door

Under the doors were a traveltop in decent shape, minus the original liftgate and with some minor rust issues along the back lip area, a liftgate with good hinges, and a step bumper with some minor bending issues.

Finally, there was a plastic tray containing an assortment of hard-to-replace plastic lenses for marker and indicator lights, some door hardware, and miscellaneous other items:

lighting spares

Of course, the weather turned frigid on Saturday, and it started snowing Sunday evening, so any playtime I might have enjoyed this weekend was put on hold. I got everything besides the top indoors and hunkered down for the blizzard. Maybe next week…

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Stick vs. MIG vs. TIG.

One of the things I’d like to (re)learn with this new truck is welding. Twenty years ago, I was given basic instruction by a guy in the sculpture department at college in exchange for a six-pack of beer, and I’ve forgotten almost everything about the lesson other than “wear a helmet”. After practicing on cast-aside strips of angle iron and flat plate, I built a guitar stand out of rebar, but that was about the limit of my hands-on experience.

Stick welding seems to be the cheapest, but from what I’m reading it’s also the hardest to master and is limiting as far as the thickness (or thinness) of the metal being welded. I don’t know if I’l be doing anything thinner than 18 gauge, but the idea that I could use it on rusty or dirty metal is interesting.

I learned on a MIG welder, so that would be the one I’d like to pick back up if possible. It’s cleaner, easier to master, and works with thinner gauges, which makes it attractive for more than just automotive applications. (What else I’d be welding I have no idea, but I’d love to find something).

TIG welding sounds great, but the cost of entry is extremely prohibitive.

The trick, it seems, is to find a MIG welder that will do longer duty cycles on a regular 110-volt circuit that isn’t over $500. I’ve read up on some of the recommended brands, and it seems that Miller and Hobart are the two most highly regarded—I’ve heard several stories about Miller’s excellent customer service.

Hydro-Boost.

Mr. Scout told me about his plans for installing a GM Hydro-Boost setup in place of the stock vacuum brake system on Chewbacca, and showed me a used system from an Astro van last weekend during the retub party. I decided to do some research on the subject and see what the pros and cons are all about.

Because of the demise of the Binder Bulletin, links and information are hard to come by, but I found a reprint of the original post here. Edit: Here’s another good post with some pictures.

From what I read, the benefits are:

  • Better stopping power
  • Better reliability vs. 30-year-old vacuum system
  • Easy parts sourcing

It all sounds great, but I’ll have to hit a junkyard and find an Astro to pull from, which isn’t happening for a few cold months. So I’d have to call this a back-burner project for a day when I’ve got some time and money, but not a necessity. (I have a Jeep that needs a window regulator MUCH sooner than this!)

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Taking Stock, Part 1.

I spent a couple of minutes looking over the truck this afternoon when the light was at its brightest, and overall some things look better than I remember and some things look worse.

Original tailgate color, aftermarket diamondplate
Original tailgate color, aftermarket diamondplate

Starting from the back, I looked over the tailgate and found it in very clean condition. Interestingly, the lousy purple paint job didn’t cover up the original color of the tailgate, which is gold on each side. From what I can see, the bed of the truck is also gold under the purple, which might help in dating the body of this particular truck. It looks like there was some work done on the hinge pins as well as two sections of the rear bed, which look like they were cut out and patched with new metal. The electrical passthrough hole on the passenger’s side is a bit rusty and will need some attention. Both of the fenders look exceptionally clean inside and out-even the top rails are in good condition.

Welded patch on the passenger side
Welded patch on the passenger side

Moving forward, there’s some pinhole rust just in front of the passenger’s rear wheel well which looks like it was blasted and painted over. There are some old bolt holes from what may have been the original rollbar on each of the wheel hoops, and there’s some ugly hacksaw holes in the fenders where a pair of 6×9″ speakers once lived. Other than that, the bed is clean. The fold-and-tumble seat works, and looks like it will be functional after it’s zipped back up.

Drivers side B pillar patch
Driver's side B pillar patch

Inside the driver’s door, both A and B pillars are in reasonably good shape, but not perfect. There’s a patch welded in the corner behind the driver’s seat, and the inner sections of the doglegs show some rust damage. The driver’s floor has been patched several times and hit with some kind of black sealant. All of the gaskets on the firewall are intact but loose. The fusebox is clean and in place, although some of the wiring looks shoddy. It looks like the instrument panel and floor was originally green, then sprayed black. The driver’s door was sprayed entirely purple and the metal skin sprayed a darker color. The armrest is missing and the crank is hard to move, which means the inner springs and scissor mechanicals need to be lubed and cleaned. The hinges are replacements from an orange donor, and the VIN plate is attached with machine screws.

Drivers floor
Driver's floor

The steering wheel is a different type than my old one, but it’s full-size truck style. Wrapped around the column is a steel-braided cable which ends in frayed threads. Mr. Clean thought it might be a choke cable, but I still say it was for an aftermarket tachometer. The dashboard was painted purple at the same time as the rest of the truck (why? WHY?) and many of the secondary indicators were painted over completely (lights, wipers, etc). It’s rocking the late 70’s shiny-decal-over-black gauge cover, and the whole thing is topped with a hideously upholstered dash pad in some sort of light blue or beige.

Between the seats (and I won’t even get into the seats, except to say that Mr. Scout is donating the old highback buckets from Chewbacca) there is an OEM console done up in some kind of wooden/nautical theme. I don’t think it was original to the truck, because the interior is standard Scout blue, but one never knows. It will be replaced by a Tuffy console anyhow.

There is also a Scout A/C system installed under the dash, and it does in fact run. (Meaning: There is power to the system, the condenser spins up on the pulleys, and air blows from the ductwork. I don’t know if it blows cold air, as it was tested in January on a 20° day).

Behind the passengers seat
Behind the passenger's seat

Behind the passenger’s seat, there is some surface rust in the corner behind the B pillar, but the floor is dirty enough that I can’t tell how bad it is. The floor by the A pillar is probably the worst place I can see on the whole truck. it’s been patched once and coated with some kind of sealant, but there’s more rust coming through. The inner wall under the A pillar has some cancer coming through which will need to be cut out and patched.

Passengers A pillar
Passenger's A pillar

Both doors close, although the passenger door takes some muscle. The hinges will need to be adjusted to move the whole thing forward 1/8″ or so. Both outer door skins look like they’re in beautiful shape. All of the hardware is present on the passenger door, although I haven’t tried the window yet.

Odd mixture of colors
Odd mixture of colors

The windshield has some kind of gnarly aftermarket tinting applied to the top 1/4, which must go. Otherwise, it looks to be in decent shape. The cowl is bubbling a little here and there, but nowhere near as bad as the cowl on my last truck. From this angle, the truck reminds me of the old VW Harlequin models from ten years ago.

Interestingly, the front grille is from a 1971-72 model.

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Documentation.

Looking over the water pump on this new Scout, I know what I’m looking at, and I know where most everything is, but I’m lacking the important technical information. This is where the service manual would come in real handy–what’s the correct procedure for pulling the water pump off with a clutch fan? What’s the proper torque to be applied to the new bolts? 

When I sold Chewbacca, I didn’t think I was going to have another Scout for a long time, so I threw in the bin of parts I’d collected, as well as the service manual. I figured Mr. Scout, her new owner, would need them more than I would, and I hope I’ve been proven right. Some recent digging in my boxes produced a dogeared Chilton’s manual, but that’s only good for a brief overview of how things go together, not how to do specific tasks. 

So I’m going to buy another copy when the budget allows. Along with this eventual purchase, I’m going to need to stop in at Harbor Freight and pick up an inexpensive torque wrench as well as some cheap air tools–I’m thinking a wire sander and possibly an impact wrench.

In the meantime, we’re breaking down some very expensive cube farms at work this week for eventual disposal, and I was able to score four ready-to-hang fluorescent lights for the garage. I’ll have to rig up some ghetto wiring to get power out there, but that shouldn’t be too difficult.

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