More Light

This may sound like a simple thing, but simple things are giving me joy in a dark time right now: I’ve got working brake lights. After spending the time and money to source a new wiring harness, pull out the dashboard, swap in the wiring, and replace everything, I was much closer to a street-legal truck:

  • All four running lights work.
  • The headlights work.
  • The turn signals work, after some grounding issues.
  • The dash lights all work.
  • The heater works.
  • The license plate light works.
  • The truck starts from the key.

But that wasn’t everything, and there was one major roadblock:

  • The brake lights didn’t work.
  • The high-beams cut off the running lights; this isn’t a dealbreaker.
  • There is wiring for a dome light, but it’s constant power right now—there’s no way to turn it off.
Brake test

Doing a little research, I realized I’d swapped the old brake light switch from the original brake master onto the new one, and most likely it was broken or clogged. I found a new one on Amazon (after some dedicated research) and swapped it in this afternoon. In two  minutes, I had working brake lights.

So next up, I’m going to sort out the dome light situation, and wire three in parallel—two over the seats, and one for the rear cargo area. And as I mentioned before, I’ve got a plan for an additional fuse panel with switched power for more accessories.

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Snow and Welding

Here’s a video recap of the last two weeks. It’s been kind of slow because of the weather, but I’ve tried to keep busy with some mostly) indoor projects. I’m very pleased with the cupholder project, and I can’t wait to get back out and finish welding on the valance panel.

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Welding Practice

Here’s what I got back from SendCutSend last week, in the form of three laser-cut and brake-bent sections of 16 ga. steel:

And here are the pieces assembled and welded:

I had to trim the top section of the parallelogram just a hair to get it to line up with the underside of the main cupholder, but other than that, the whole thing went together as smooth as butter. Welding things up took about an hour after I’d squared it all, and I wire-brushed everything down in preparation for paint. I ran out of time before I could take it outside and test-fit everything, but I’m stoked with the progress so far.

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Cold Weather Projects

Cold-weather welding

I braved 20˚ weather to sit in the back of Darth and weld in the valance above the barn doors on Sunday morning. The idea was to get out ahead of the weather before it dumped a predicted 6″ of snow on us, which it’s currently doing. It was a bit tricky, as I think the metal was cold enough that it didn’t promote clean penetration in the smaller plug welds I drilled, but I got the majority of it on and ground down for paint. I’ll have to do a little filler work to clean up a couple of places when it’s warmer as well.

On the brake/electrical front, it turns out the brake master from the green truck has an entirely different switch system (my guess is that the switch was on the pedal assembly but I haven’t checked that) so I had nothing to swap in and test. I did finally track down the part I need, Standard Motor SLS30, and ordered it via Amazon. So after we’re dug out and the project I’m managing at work is done, I can test it out.

I’ve been doing a lot of research into wiring in an additional fuse panel for accessories, and I think I’ve got a good idea of what I need and how it works. It’s actually pretty simple; I need a new panel wired up to a 30amp relay, which is then connected directly to the battery and a ground. The fourth wire goes to the accessory circuit on the existing panel, which acts simply as a switch. Turn the key on, and power goes to the new panel. All of the load goes through the new wire into the new panel, ensuring I don’t burn the truck down by overloading the old wiring harness. My truck was spec’d for a larger alternator but I have no idea if the used wiring harness I have was made to handle that increase in power. I’m going to over-engineer it so that I’ve got room to expand with things like A/C, a backup/rearview camera and electric steering, but for now just having some accessory plugs will be great.

Down on the workbench, I carefully drilled the lockset out of the barn door handle from Darth and laid the parts out. The used barrel I’ve got will not stay in the handle with the key in the lock, so I think I’m going to have to bite the bullet and order a second lockset keyed to the existing door locks. I was really hoping I could get the used barrel to work but it’s just not happening. The handles attach to the door with two threaded rods which were rusted solid to the retaining nuts, so I soaked them for two weeks in PBblaster. I put two new nuts on the rods, torqued them tight to each other, and used them for leverage to spin the rusted nuts off. The rods were  soaked clean in Evaporust and are now mounted back on the handles.

While I was diving back into locksmithing, I pulled out my spare Scout II T-handle assembly and looked it over. There’s a method for popping the lock out with a thin rod that compresses a brass retaining clip on the barrel, but no amount of PBblaster or lithium grease would free that clip up. So I drilled the face of the lock and pulled the top 2/3 of the barrel out. It was in such bad shape that the bottom 1/3 took some digging to pull out, but once it separated the handle was easy to clean up. If my lift gate latch closed all the way shut I’d look into buying a new barrel for this, but it doesn’t so there’s really no point.

2024 In Review

In January, I was looking at pictures of pretty new upholstery for the Travelall and making plans to clean up the seatframes for new foam. It’s December and I’ve just now got the seats finished and installed in the truck; in the months between I got a lot of projects done. Here’s a recap:

Early in January I finally got around to making some T-shirt designs for Travelalls and Scouts, set up a Threadless storefront, and did some initial posting on social media. The response was pretty good; I need to make a new push this coming year, as well as update some merchandise.

I got serious about building out a YouTube channel for the red truck, and started posting videos about every two weeks. The channel points back to the Threadless site, and I get a couple of orders a month. Also, I made a dedicated Instagram feed for the red truck.

From January into February, in between cold snaps, I finished sanding and painting the passenger fender I rebuilt the fuel hose port on; that project went much better with the experience I’d gained doing previous bodywork projects. The fender is now hanging in the garage waiting for some other parts to be shot with IH red, and will then get clearcoat.

March was a big month: I took possession of an unwanted, untitled green Travelall in Pennsylvania with a ton of help from Bennett, and we dropped it in the driveway in front of the red truck. This project sort of took over the next two months as I worked to tear it down and part it out before the neighbors complained and had me hauled it hauled away. I had the entire truck stripped down, the parts organized, and the carcass ready for towing by April 30. And I made a crisp $100 on it!

Also in March, I ordered and got a used, tested and labeled wiring harness from the Scout Connection, which wound up being for a later model year. I returned it for a proper 1962-62 harness which was tested and labeled, and later on in the year I pulled the dashboard from the red truck, cleaned it up, and swapped the new harness in place. Putting it back in was easy, as I’d already taken two of them apart, and when I tested it out about 80% of the electrical system came back online.

The firewall got cleaned up and covered in heat matting, an upgrade I found very useful in the Scout, and during that process I finished cleaning up and painting the cowl vents I’d fabricated in 2023. I also pulled the heater box out and disassembled the whole unit. The rear of the box had a fair bit of rust damage, so I welded new sections on to the sides and back, reassembled with new hardware, and got it ready for paint.

August was a big month. First and foremost, Brian and I drove the Scout 1200 miles round trip to Harvester Homecoming at the IH plant in Fort Wayne, Indiana. We had a great time, met a bunch of new people, and were lucky to have good traveling weather, although our first evening at the event ended in a downpour that had us running for the exits. The Scout ran great, but I noticed she was leaking a lot of oil out the underside at speed.

When I was back, I took a week off from work and spent a couple of days prepping the roof for primer and paint. I’d left it sitting since last summer so it needed some attention before fall. I re-worked the sections that needed help, finish sanded the whole thing, and shot it with pro-grade primer from an HVLP gun. When that was cured I sprayed it with two coats of two-stage PPG white, and I think it turned out really good.

I worked on cleaning up each of the doors, installed weatherstripping, welded over the mounting holes from old mirrors, and rebuilt both of the West Coast mirrors I’d bought last year. They got mounted permanently on the truck.

Finding vendors willing to work on old iron is hard. I wanted to use the same guy who installed the passenger side glass to replace the dry, cracked gasket on the driver’s side, so I spent the money on new rubber and his expertise to have it put it in.

In September I had some gray single-stage paint matched from the old door cards and sprayed out four replacements as well as the heater box, then sprayed it all with a matte clear coat. I really like the results. When they were cured, the heater box went back in over the heat matting and was hooked up to the engine.

I donned a Tyvek suit and scraped all of the fiberglass off the roof, treated it with Rust Converter, and installed some lightweight heat/sound matting.

With those things done, and looking at another month of reasonably decent weather, I got a wild hair up my ass and dropped the fuel tank to survey the underside of the floorpan. The fuel tank is in fantastic shape, and got wire-wheeled, cleaned out, and repainted. The passenger floor, which featured the worst rust remaining in the truck, was trimmed away until I found clean metal. I welded a new sheet in place, and cut sections of the lower firewall out until I had good metal there.

I came into possession of a second steering column, this one from a manual steering/column shift truck, and an electrical steering unit from a Nissan Versa. This is the starting point for an electric steering conversion sometime next year.

Before Thanksgiving, I dropped the Scout off at a transmission shop nearby who had been recommended by another truck guy I met at our local Cars & Coffee. She’s been there waiting for a spot in his bay since then. He got her up on the lift two weeks before Christmas and recommended a new seal kit for both the transmission and the transfer case. While he had those two off the truck, he sent me pictures of the flywheel and clutch, and recommended we swap those out while we were at it. As of December 26 he’s got all the parts he needs to finish up the job.

With the weather getting colder, I got materials in the door for the seats and spent a couple of weeks redoing the upholstery on all four sections. This involved tearing down the rear upright from the green truck and using that frame, but all of the other frames I’d prepared worked out perfectly. When that was done, I bolted the lockbox in the back of the truck and installed the seats.

In between all of that, there are a million other smaller projects that got done. The frame under the passenger side was needle-scaled and painted. The adhesive from the old carpeting has all been removed. The door locks up front have been replaced. The front bumper  from the green truck was installed. The license plate light got mounted on the rear door. The outside lights all got dedicated grounds run to the body. I’ve got turn signals and headlights, but the high-beams still don’t work and they cancel out the running lights.

Looking back on it (and looking at it in the driveway) I can see a lot of progress this year. The first year, a lot of the labor was hidden but this year I can see big cosmetic improvements happening. The push for this coming spring will to be getting it on the road. I know the transmission is good, because she’ll move when she’s in gear and I bump the starter; for some reason the clutch pedal isn’t working. More on that later.

Cold Weather Projects

It’s been hatefully cold this past week, and we’ve had a full pre-Christmas schedule so there hasn’t been much I could do on the trucks. However, I did eyeball the rear valance panel sitting in the rear bed and it sparked an idea. I brought it and the panel from the green truck into the garage, set up the welder, and started pounding the twisted metal back into place. When it was all flat, the holes were smaller and circular, just large enough to be a pain to close up, but too small to find easy plugs to fill.

Cold, cold welding in my janky-ass garage

I used the copper backer and started slowly filling each of the smaller holes, then cut a square hole around the really mangled section in the center. When I had the settings dialed in, I cut square sections out on the sides, and plugs out of the green truck valance to fill things in. Ordinarily I would have just fabricated my own, but these have a compound curve as they push out to the edges that I figured would just be easier to cut out of the spare piece.

After some trimming I got them both tacked in and then spent the next hour jumping back and forth with a couple of welds on each side, then swapping to let things cool while I tacked on the other side. As of Sunday evening the piece is a bit warped in the center and needs some flattening, but the main welds are complete. Tomorrow I’ll get it straightened out, then wire wheel off the surface rust and old paint, and skim it with some filler.

Be Seated

I want up having a bit more time this weekend than I originally planned to work on the seats in the truck. The first thing to do was to finish up the base of the front seat and get that ready to install. Then I cut material down and fitted it to the seat back from the ’63 frame. Looking it over in detail, I remembered that two of the coils directly behind the driver were missing, probably rusted out. Instead of trying to figure out how to fix that, I decided to tear down the ’67 seat and rebuild that one—a decision made easier knowing that I needed the chipboard IH installed to make sure passengers don’t put their knees through the vinyl.

So, I pulled it out of the truck and tore it down in the driveway. After wire-wheeling the rust on the bottom from a pretty sizable mouse nest, I sprayed it liberally with rust converter and let it dry. Later, in the basement, I used the material I’d pre-cut and started stretching the fabric over the frame. This seat probably took the most effort to actually put together, but after I started in the middle and worked my way out to the edges it came together really well. Then, I carried it back out to the truck and put it in place temporarily to see how things look. I’m really happy with the way the whole thing has turned out.

Suddenly, the interior of the truck looks legit:  The color of the piping matches the gray of the door cards perfectly. The seats are comfortable, and feel strong when I’m sitting in them.

So now I’ve got to do some finish painting and clean up on the seat back, run more hog rings along the bottom of the front seat, base, and paint the frame from the green truck red to match the rest of the truck and I should be able to seal that stuff up.

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Welding and Seating

We were busy with lots of fun Christmas activities this weekend so my opportunities to work on the truck were limited, but I hit a big milestone Sunday evening. First, I’ll mention the delivery of a brand-new welder from Eastwood, which I was finally able to unbox and use on Saturday evening as the sun was setting. With that, I was able to weld the filler hose bracket onto the front firewall, a captive nut on the bottom of the rocker to mount the fuel tank, and a captive nut on the passenger kick panel to mount the fender skirt properly. After that I found that the fuel hose I’d bought from Amazon—after waiting three weeks for Summit to send me a notification that wouldn’t be able to ship one until 12/28—was 1/2″ too big. I have no idea how I messed that up, but the correct size is on the way.

Returning to the bench seats, I’d started the upright to the rear bench last week but stalled at the corners, as they didn’t resemble the one on the spare ’68 bench I have for reference. But when I returned to the seat portion and realized I had to tuck the fabric behind the metal hinge mounts instead of covering them, I understood how to finish both seats off and how the pattern worked. It took some work but I got the upright 98% finished (I think I might have to try to sew one seam up by hand). Then I consulted a reference photo and connected both seats with refurbished bars and mounted the seat in the truck. I really like the way this looks and I’m excited to get the front seat started.

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Weekend Recap, 11.24

I spent Saturday down at Bob’s with my brother in law, working to get the Chrysler back in the garage. The engineering problem I faced was how to push a 4,300 lb. car back up a slight incline into the garage, while also moving it laterally by about ten feet. The solution I came up with involved a hammer drill, several concrete bits, lag bolts and barrels, and a cheap Harbor Freight winch with a remote.

After loading up on the supplies, Glen and I opened up the shiny new garage door and set up for the installation. I measured out two holes for the baseplate and had him start drilling while I assembled the winch. After a couple of tries with different bits and an adjustment in hardware which required a return trip to Lowe’s and a stopoff for tacos.

When we got back, the new bits we bought made relatively short work of 45-year-old concrete, and I was able to anchor the winch into the floor. I pulled the battery from the Chrysler and used that for power (it’s been on a tender since I bought it) and we played out the line to the back of the car. The winch wasn’t powerful enough to pull the car by itself, but with three of us pushing, it was the extra power we needed—as well as a safety measure in case the car got away from us. I hauled the wheel over hard to correct the position and then we pushed/pulled the car up about 3/4 of the way inside. With that done, we jacked up each corner and put it on the dollies so that we could push it to the far side of the garage, as out of the way as possible.

Sunday morning I got out to the Travelall and cleaned off the inside roof with acetone before covering the whole thing with Rust-Stop. While that cured, I pulled the driver’s wheel and cleaned the outside face of the driver’s inner fender with the wire wheel. That was covered with Rust Encapsulator, and while that dried I painted the frame with chassis black. And while the can was open I painted the frame on the passenger side where the gas tank will go.

Inside the cab, I used some chalk to mark out where the sound deadener was going to go, and cut a sheet of kraft paper to test the measurements. After some adjustments I flattened the first sheet out and aligned the center with the centerline of the roof, and peeled a little of the backing off to set it in place. It took some work to get everything oriented correctly, and then I peeled one side off to set it permanently. Give or take 1/8″ on either side, I got it aligned almost perfectly; using the long edge to align the second and third sheets, I made it to the back of the truck centered on the rear doors.

By that point it was getting dark and cold, so I closed up the truck and moved into the basement to work on the base of the rear bench seat. After reviewing some how-to videos to refresh my memory, I cut burlap, foam and carpet padding down to fit the seat and attached the burlap to the frame with some hog rings. Then I stretched the cover over the bench as best I could, working to get the scallops in the back edge into place.

Stretching the cover and clipping it in with the hog rings is exactly the same process as stretching a canvas or mesh for screenprinting: start at the middle of each edge and work your way outwards. Again, the trickiest parts were the indents where the seat is scalloped to avoid the wheel wells, but I realized I could compress the whole seat by kneeling on it and used that to pull the fabric around to the attachment bars.

Overall I’m pretty happy with the results for my first attempt. I put the carpet padding on top of the foam, but Jeff tells me it’s supposed to go underneath, which is what I’ll do with the upright part of the seat. For this I wanted it to be firm directly underneath, and I wasn’t aware there was a firmer foam available for the seat when I bought my materials. I’ve got to carefully add some small holes for the four hinge bolts and the bump stops, which makes me nervous, but Jeff tells me it should be fine.

So next up I have to disassemble the upright for the rear seat and prep it for covering, which means I have to hit it with the wire wheel and spray it down with Rust Converter.

I’m headed north to see my family for Thanksgiving, and there’s a junkyard near my sister’s house with some ancient IH iron, including this rusty Travelall panel truck. I’m not sure what to expect, but he says he’s got other IH stuff in there somewhere, so it should be a fun day for bushwhacking. I bought a cordless angle grinder on contingency but I’m going to leave it in the box so that I can return it if I don’t need it.

Looking at the dashboard, it’s a ’62 or earlier, so it’ll be interesting to get a look at the front clip. At first blush the stuff I see that would be worth something would be the barn doors, but they look pretty rough. Just looking at this photo, the things I see that might be worth picking would be:

  • The barn doors, if they’re salvageable
    • if not, the mechanisms—latches, the rear handle, etc.
    • The windows
  • Any of the chrome—the rear taillights, for example
  • the rear doors, if they’re salvageable
    • Any of the interior mechanisms from these doors—scissors, latches, etc.
    • Chrome brightwork, interior steel surround
  • Either of the bumpers, if they’re in good shape
  • Front wing windows, if they’re OK.
  • Steering wheel/column, if I can get it out

I have no idea what the rest of the truck looks like, but I’ll see when we get out there. And even if the whole thing is a wreck it’ll be fun to go looking.