Wheel Talk

Following up on my last post, I ran out to Frederick on Sunday to pick up a pair of NIB steel 5×4.5 wheels from a nice gentleman named Tom. After measuring the backspacing and offset, I went ahead and pulled the trigger anyway—all four were only $75—but even before I fit one on the truck as a test, I knew it wouldn’t work correctly. These wheels are 6.5″ wide, and the offset is the same as the wheels I’ve got, which means there’s an extra 2″ of wheel inboard of the hubs; this means they’re too far inward to actually mount to the truck without rubbing against the body. My initial thought was that I could buy 1″ or 2″ spacers to get them to fit, but then I’d also need longer wheel studs, and that was getting more and more expensive and time-consuming. So, I discarded that idea.

But, this did give me some good information to jump off from. These wheels are made by Dorman, and they did offer other options in this wheel pattern, but most all of the ones available are direct replacements for OEM wheels and don’t have the correct offset. Some more looking turned up a set of Wheel Vintique steelies at 16″ and 6″ wide with the correct offset; the only problem is that they’re $200/ea. So this will be a save-up-for-it thing, and I’ll keep my travels local until I can make the purchase.

In the meantime, I picked up an OEM International seatbelt retractor from a fellow on Marketplace. Darth Haul only has non-retractable lap belts, and when I got the green truck it came with two of these retractors on the back seat. They are essentially a C-shaped springloaded device that coils up the belt when it’s not buckled. I put them on Darth up front, and they do a great job of keeping the seatbelts inside the truck and away from scraping along the pavement. Of the two I inherited, one was rusty and the metal tabs that hold the belt were weak; it works, but it would be great to have two solid units up front.

I bought a new power steering pump for Peer Pressure, which will be here Tuesday; swapping this in will be part of the weekend’s chore list so that I can keep her from piddling all over the driveway. I think I’ve got the right fittings for the Hydroboost setup, but some further research is required.

On the merchandise front, I made a bunch of updates to the new T-shirt storefront at Fourthwall, which I’m happier and happier about every day. I’ve already made a bunch of sales there—the first customer, who bought a Make Scouts $500 Again shirt, wore it to the Rocky Mountain Roundup, and within a couple of days I had three more sales from Colorado. The entire setup of this storefront is so much friendlier and equitable compared to Threadless, which was pretty much a joke. I wish I’d known that earlier.

I also set up a VERY simple page at duganheavyindustries.com and built a draft page for the cupholder. I’m still finalizing some stuff, but I’m going to put a feeler post out on a couple of the Facebook groups to see if I can generate enough interest to make the initial investment—I figure 5 committed buyers should be enough to have 10 sets made, and that will recoup the costs. I sourced the shipping boxes, so the last thing I need is some way to take payment. WordPress has all kinds of e-commerce plugins available, so I’ll have to see if that’s worth the time—or if I just do Venmo and roll the dice.

Shaky

Death Wobble. It’s an issue Jeep owners of a certain era are very familiar with: in solid-axle suspension setups, when elements like track bars, ball joints, tie rods, or wheel bearings wear out, the entire steering setup will start to oscillate and quickly shake the front of the truck to the point where it becomes uncontrollable. While I know my wheels are out of balance or bent, I’m beginning to suspect there’s something wrong with the suspension on the truck as well, which gets set off by the uneven wheels.

I’ve been through about 75% of my front suspension so far, having upgraded the springs, replaced 3 of the 4 tie rods, and repacked the wheel bearings on both sides; at this point I don’t know what else I need to focus on. I know I’ve got bushings that need to be replaced on the factory-installed sway bar, which could be the culprit, but I’m not sure that’s the issue. I called the Scout Connection to see if they’ve got the fourth tie rod—it’s a nonstandard length, about 9″ from edge to edge, going from the steering box to the lower arm on the driver’s hub—and bushings for the sway bars. I was grasping at straws at first, and thought I might look in the MT-118 Parts Catalog I’ve got on the shelf for kicks, when I was surprised to remember it’s for all of the C-series trucks, not the Scout II like I thought. So I was able to give them the part numbers, which is handy, and they’re going to call me back.

In the meantime, I’m going to swap the passenger front and rear wheels and see if that makes any difference at speed. The next thing to try will be throwing a set of $100 light truck tires on the two front wheels, in the off chance the trailer tires I put on them are just out of whack.

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While any major projects have slowed to a crawl, I’ve quietly been putting miles on the Travelall over the last couple of weeks. I’ve had her out for a couple of trips over 20 miles each, and she’s come through with flying colors. Last weekend I ran a bunch of errands with her and the only issues I found were the ongoing balance issues with the tires, and the engine sometimes dieseling on shutdown.

The second problem is due to a couple of issues, I suspect: I do have to retard the timing just a hair, but the main cause is due to the choke cable binding somewhere so that after the engine is started and I push it back in to open the choke, it’s not opening all the way—and the mechanism keeps the idle higher than normal. So she’s running a little hotter than she should, even though the temp needle stays pegged to the cooler side.

On the semi-positive side, I had a credit on the books with IHPA for my clutch core so I used that to get a set of window channels and felts for the rear doors on the truck. When I bought the fronts I wasn’t aware that the rears aren’t usually sold separately, so they had to do some wrangling. The company that makes the fronts doesn’t like to split the kits up so they went with their second supplier, who shipped them directly to me. After I looked the kit over, I was not as impressed with the fit and finish of the first kit: the channels aren’t backed with metal, nor do they have the clips IH used to mount the top section; the felts are thicker than OEM, come without the mounting clips installed, and are pre-drilled in the wrong locations.

I pulled the driver’s rear door apart, took the original metal channels out, and test-fit the new ones. They are flexible, so they don’t cradle the window firmly in the middle of the track, and they’re about 1/8″ too wide to fit in the original metal channels. The felts are mounted differently on the rear doors than the fronts; here they clip into the chrome trim ring on the outside and a black trim ring on the inside—which requires removal of both. The black ring is easy to take off but the chrome ring requires delicate surgery to pull off without bending. And because the chrome ring is on the outside, that’s the most important side to install.

With plastic trim tools I was able to gently pull the lower chrome section off the truck, and after drilling holes in the right locations, I fed the clips through and fastened them with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Re-assembling the door, I found that with both felts installed, the window was unable to rise past them; they’re too thick. I left the felt attached to the black trim ring and pulled another ring off one of my spare doors to swap onto the truck. With just the outer felt installed, the window went up and down—but the metal clips were scraping along the window as it went up and down. And the window was not moving smoothly after I put the door card back on.

I then broke down the passenger rear window on the Travelall and installed the channels and felt on that side, being sure to add a liberal coat of white lithium grease to the scissor and all of the door mechanisms. On this side, I put the felt on the outside chrome channel and then added two strips of rubber to the back of the inside black channel to keep the window from rattling—and that seems to do the trick. The window is quieter now, which is great, but I’m not impressed with this kit at all.

Last Saturday, I drove the Scout out to the store to pick up some oven cleaner, and sprayed a generous amount of that over the power steering pump, the steering box, and everything under and around it covered in oil and grease. She’s been leaking for some time now, and the reservoir was empty before I left the house, so this has been on my mind for a while. Steering boxes are very hard to find these days, and replacements are expensive, so I was nervous thinking about how much effort and money it would take to replace.

With the engine hot, the gunk broke up quickly, and I cleared it off with the pressure washer. With that done, I was able to see the frame on that side clearly for the first time, and noted that one of the previous owners had done some decent welding on the frame, bump stop and shock mounts. I sprayed the bare frame with rust-stop, then covered  that with chassis black, then ran the truck up for a little bit, parked it, and waited.

Last Sunday afternoon I did a careful inspection of the steering box, and I don’t see any leaks, nor do I see anyplace it could be leaking from. I noticed liquid dripping from above it, on what I think is the front of the pump, near the pulley. It’s hard to get my big fat head down in there to look closely. New pumps are about $150, so I’ll pick up a new one and swap it on.

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Rooftop Dreams

I’m currently gathering all of my camping equipment to take the kids on a trip up to a park in Pennsylvania, and I’ll be packing the Scout. This is not a problem; I love taking the Scout on adventures. But my end goal for the Travelall has always been to make it a proper touring/camping rig, and one of the things on the list is to install a rooftop tent. Marketplace seems to be lousy with used examples, and while I’ve been tempted to buy one lately, I know I’m still at least a year away from being ready. For one thing, I still don’t have a platform built to mount a tent to, although I have the aluminum channel ready and waiting for a date with the TIG welder.

That’s not to say I haven’t been doing my homework. I’m looking for a hardshell model, for several reasons: I don’t want a big flappy bag on the top of the truck slowing things down, I don’t want something that will require a PhD and a 2-hour video to install, and I’d like to have a place to mount solar panels to charge the battery and plug stuff into. I’ve seen several different options from multiple manufacturers, and over the weekend I stumbled across a listing for a Naturenest Polaris Plus on Marketplace. This seems to tick all of the boxes I’m interested in: it’s light, it’s a hardshell, it packs down small, and it’s outfitted with some thoughtful amenities—an external cooler-heater vent, USB plugs, lighting, and external racks to mount other gear upon. This looks like a strong contender—and the price is reasonable.

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On Fumes

It was a very hot weekend, so my motivation for being outside was very low, but I did push forward with some small tasks on the Scout—and I put about 80 miles on the Travelall in two separate trips.

I had started pulling the evap fittings apart on the Scout last week, but what I needed was about 16 feet of thin-diameter fuel hose and a handful of new brass barb fittings. ACE hardware always comes through with the right stuff, and I was able to plumb three of five fittings in on the truck before I had to get the jack out and drop the tank about 4″ to access the ones on the top. When I had those all in place, I squinted multiple times at the diagram in the service manual, and I think I connected all of the hoses in the right locations. This evap system is supposed to do a couple of things: reduce fumes and emissions from the tank, but also provide a couple more vent pathways to prevent overfilling when adding new gas to the tank. We’ll see how that shakes out. If it doesn’t have any effect, then I’ll consider dropping this tank completely and re-installing the steel tank, which should seal up at the sender location much better.

I didn’t do much to the Travelall other than drive it, although two wiper blades came in at NAPA and I found a spring for the spare wiper arm to cobble something together. I still have a new one coming in tomorrow, which will get installed on the truck, but now I understand how it’s assembled. She’s running like a champ, but I still have to sort out the issue with the wheels.

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Re-Ignition

Good news: the Travelall is running again. I did a quick inventory to see how many ignition switches I’ve got, and it turned out I have five. One from the original truck, one from the replacement harness, one from the green truck, one from the Scout 800, and one NIB unit. The switch I was using was the one from the replacement harness, which had worked fine up until this problem. When I pulled it out the other day, the lock barrel was spinning freely inside the switch, which meant that nothing was making a connection inside the switch to send signals to the truck. Last weekend I went over to the 800 in storage, pulled the NIB lock barrel I’d put in that, and brought it back to the bench to swap in the lock barrel I have a key for. Putting it in the truck, it started, but something inside was sticking, keeping the starter grinding, and pulling the key back killed the engine.

Locksets

So I went through the other switches. I cleaned rust off the connection blades off the Scout 800 switch, scrubbed it with electrical degreaser, and shot it full of WD-40.  The barrel went in perfectly, and the truck fired up and ran without a hitch. This switch is probably the original USA-made unit from 1967, was sitting out in a field for 15+ years, and worked flawlessly. The new unit I bought seems to be faulty, which tracks with a lot of comments I’ve been hearing about the quality of new parts lately.

Out on the road, the truck ran fine—she was upset because she hadn’t been run up in two weeks, so I had to warm her up—but once we were moving she was fine. I’m still getting a ferocious wobble at about 55mph, which I haven’t tracked down yet. I put a camera on the passenger rear tire, which looked pretty steady; I’m going to put cameras on the other three tires this weekend to see if I can pin down the source.

Scout II Fuel line diag ram

This weekend I’m going to pull the rear wheel off the Scout and see if I can sort out the evap/emissions gear in the rear passenger fender; I’d pulled it all out when we swapped the poly tank in 15 years ago like a dummy, but looking it over on the bench and comparing to the service manual, it’s clear some yee-haw got in there and butchered the original connections. I bought some new fittings and fuel hose from ACE last weekend, and I’m going to attempt to re-install the system the way the manual specifies. I’m actually considering dropping the tank completely to re-install the sender gasket; we’ll see how ambitious I feel tomorrow.

I’m also going to shoot the entire steering box/pump with oven cleaner to degrease the entire unit so that I can figure out where it’s leaking from—and pin down my next steps for that issue. New boxes are $600 before shipping, so if it’s something simpler than that, I’d be very happy. But I doubt it. Thankfully I’ve got a spare in the garage for the core charge.

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Post-Nats Video Update

Here’s a long-delayed video update covering everything after Nationals to now, including yesterday’s excellent Travelall update: The truck is starting again, after I ran out to the 800, stole the ignition switch from that, and swapped it in. As I was testing the old one I found that the lock barrel was just spinning inside the switch, which is very much not supposed to happen. This was the unit from the replacement wiring harness, so it was probably 60+ years old, and definitely due for a replacement.

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12 Volts

The fuel gauge on the Scout has been annoying me since I bought the truck seventeen years ago.  I took some time last weekend to jump the connection from the sender directly to the gauge, bypassing the voltage regulator, and found that the gauge does work correctly—which means the issue is behind the dashboard somewhere. Next, I tested the voltage regulators on all of my spare oil/temp gauges, and as far as I can tell they’re working correctly. Tracing the wire from the gauge back to its next stop at the harness, I pulled the bulkhead connector off the firewall and found that it was full of garbage—tar and rust, which had made its way inside from the ‘sealing’ job the previous owner did at some point. So I cleaned all the contacts. With a new fuel/amp gauge installed (this one with bright orange needles and UNLEADED FUEL ONLY added under the other text) I turned the key and got….nothing.

So I figure there’s a break in the wire somewhere between the sender and the gauge, or a bad connection in the bulkhead connector. My next move will be to test continuity between the endpoints and see where the break is, then try to fix that issue.

While I had the dash broken down, I cleaned all the contact areas on the circuit boards I could reach, and replaced the bluish LED bulbs I originally installed with newer, whiter bulbs. After buttoning the dash back up I was rewarded with a fully lighted set of gauges—before this I only had two bulbs working on the speedo cluster, and a left turn signal indicator. Now I’ve got everything back, which is a relief—including my right turn signal indicator! (now I just have to break the wheel down and fix the canceling cam).

And while I was messing around under the dash, I spied pigtails coming out of the courtesy light harnesses and decided to test one with the existing door light switch on the passenger side. I put a test wire on it and when that actually worked, I decided to fix both sides. Someone had swapped in light harnesses with pole-style connectors, so I snipped those off and added blades to fit the ends of the main wiring harness. The driver’s door switch had been mangled long ago so I drilled and tapped a new hole for a used switch from the green truck and wired it in. And as mentioned earlier, I assembled a dome light for the rollbar from a new LED light, a length of wire, and a special automotive pigtail sourced at Nats. Feeding the wire down the rollbar, through the speaker hole, over the wheel well and into the rear taillight housing, I connected it to the factory dome light lead. Now, opening either door turns on the two under-dash courtesy lights and the dome light, which makes getting in and out of the truck in the dark much easier.

I swapped the second of the two LED dome lights I bought in at the back of the Travelall, and that brightened the area up by a factor of five. I’ve got some switches coming to replace the ancient ones that came in the truck, and I’m going to design some new 3D-printed housings for each light to clean things up.

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