Here’s a relatively short video with the updates from the past week.
Author: bill
Heater Box
Yesterday I got a late start on the red bus after I had a little trouble with the Scout. I’d driven her to get a haircut and pick up some new bolts for the heater box, and she started immediately in the driveway. When I came back out after the trim, she wouldn’t start. I was a little nervous because Jen was already on the road to Southern Maryland and I was on my own. First I checked for gas, and sure enough I was getting plenty of that in the carburetor. The air filter was clean so I knew that wasn’t the problem. My next thought was that maybe the coil had died so I pulled the spare out of my recovery box and swapped it in quickly. I still wasn’t getting the motor to catch so I did what I should’ve done first and pull the cap and rotor off to check the points. Sure enough, there was corrosion around all of the contacts on the inside of the cap, so I cleaned those off with sandpaper and the top of the rotor.
Replacing everything, I squirted a little fluid in the carb, crossed my fingers and tried starting it. At first she didn’t want to catch, but after about five seconds, she slowly caught and began running. I let her idle for a couple of minutes and then turned her off and started her again to test it out. Thankfully she started right back up. So I continued running errands for the rest of the morning and came home. I have no idea why she would have run so well in the morning but not after she’d warmed up and dried out.
Saturday’s goal was to get the heater box installed in the red bus. After some finagling with the box itself, I connected the cable from the dashboard to the passenger vent, which took a little bit of time because I couldn’t find the retainer clip that went on the chimney. I went through three of my bins before I found a tall plastic container marked “Random Travelall Bolts”. I spread those out on the table and found the clip I was looking for. With that installed, I put the box in place and used three new bolts to mount it to the firewall firmly. Then I made a mess on the driveway hooking the coolant hoses back up. I hooked up the leads to the heater box and tested those out to the switch on the dash; it turns out that switch system is keyed to the ignition, so with the ignition off, it doesn’t work. But the blower motor does fire up, so that’s another electrical question solved.
Next, I took the heater plenum, mounted that back up to the box and attached the defrost cable to the dash control. All of the cables are pretty crusty so it took some WD-40 and some effort to get those to work a little better. Both of the heater hoses are 60 years old and pretty dry rotted so I’m going to have to buy some new hose to hook up to the defrost vents.
Because I don’t want to pay $50 for two small door clips I went to the garage and pulled OEM clips out of my second set of Scout doors. While I had the passenger door free I pulled the wing window assembly out, which is in almost perfect working condition, and swapped it for the less-than-perfect replacement in Peer Pressure. It took all of about 1/2 hour and went extremely smoothly. I dunked the clips in Evaporust overnight and sprayed them with Rust-Stop.
Then I worked on the driver’s side door lock to try to figure out why it didn’t unlatch from the inside, and why the lock cylinder still fell out of the lock. The passenger side worked as it should—I could lock and unlock the door and the cylinder stayed in the lock on that side, but crucially, the inside and outside doorhandles worked the way they were supposed to on that door. There was something wrong with the driver side door mechanism that I wasn’t able to figure out.
So I pulled the spare green driver’s door out of the garage, laid it on the table, and continued disassembling it. I started this process back in March, but the weather got warm pretty fast and I put it aside for outside work. Continuing where I left off, in about an hour, I was able to get the entire door stripped down. I put the door latch mechanism back in to test out how the key worked with the rest of the system; it’s a lot more complicated than the one on the Scout and I couldn’t figure out how the key mechanism interacted with the door latch to stop the door latch from working.
Sunday morning I walked the dog and took care of some small errands before getting back outside; it was another beautiful day so it felt great to spend it outside. The first thing I worked on was the driver’s door; I realized pretty quickly that the rod on the back of the lock never made it into the mechanism and thus was spinning freely. D’oh! Once I set it in place, the lock worked exactly as designed, and I felt a lot better. I swapped the refurbished clip in on the passenger side and verified that both doors lock and unlock from each side.
Then I padded the top of the truck and pulled the canopy down carefully. I was hesitant to do this, but I’m going to need as much light as I can get under there, and I can’t have the canopy up forever. The top of the truck really looks good in the sunlight; it’s great to see my work clearly for the first time.
(the water hadn’t dried completely in the photo above)
I put some gas in the carb and fired the engine up for as long as that lasted; she turned over immediately. I really can’t wait to get the fuel system buttoned up for good, but I think I’m going to drop the tank this winter and weld some new metal in on the passenger floor while it’s empty.
I spent the rest of the day farting around with some small stuff; now that the canopy is down I have to finish up the weatherstripping. So I pulled the old rubber off the driver’s door and ran a nylon brush around the perimeter to clean off all the old adhesive, then hit it with some red Rust-Stop. When that’s cured for 24 hours I’ll put new rubber around the perimeter of the door to seal things up.
The biggest win was finding out why the turn signals stopped working: I pulled the instrument panel and found that one of the leads to the temp gauge had come off when I was messing with the bulkhead connectors. Hooking that back up, I got signals back, and I felt immensely better about that situation. So: progress on a couple of fronts that I’m feeling really good about.
Of Locks and Boxes
It’s been quiet for the past two weeks. Last weekend we were celebrating a birthday and dealing with a yard sale so all truck things were on hold. This weekend I was down in Southern Maryland busting a trio of brake drums free on the FiL’s 1966 Chrysler to make it mobile again.
Two weeks ago I jacked it up onto a set of Harbor Freight dollies and used my tow strap to pull it out of the garage and on to the driveway, the first time it’s seen daylight since 1980. The dollies were pretty useless on his ancient pitted asphalt so it was a necessity to get it rolling on its own wheels again. In the middle of that operation, my old floor jack decided 4,300 lbs of luxury convertible was just too much to lift, as we ran out to the local Harbor Freight for a replacement. I’ve been eyeballing a new floor jack for months but was holding off on buying one. As it turned out they were having a 40% off sale on the more expensive 3 ton model so I walked out with a beautiful new jack. And after chopping the front drum apart with a $15 angle grinder, we got the drum moving and the car rolling.
I wound up with something in my left eye from the brake drum and got terrible sleep Saturday evening (if I can’t get it out with an eye flush this evening I’m going to visit an ophthalmologist tomorrow) but woke up at 7 to meet a guy in Columbia who wanted to buy my two worst Scout fenders. I was happy to get $100 for them, which was half what I was asking, but I’m happy to have them out of the office and out of my way. And the four remaining fenders will work just fine if I need them to.
In the meantime it’s been raining pretty much nonstop this week, and I was in New York on Wednesday and Thursday. That being said, I had a little time after work on Thursday evening to mess with a new set of lock cylinders for the Travelall; they lock into the barrels just fine, but release when the key is turned to the 8 o’clock position. I don’t have them in the door so I can’t tell if the mechanical linkage to the door mechanism will keep them in place or not, but something tells me this isn’t correct. Which is strange, because they are an almost exact match to the original cylinders.
The Travelall heater box is ready to install.. Sunday I put the motor, heating element and wiring back in the box, drilled new holes for the back plate, and fastened that in place with new stainless screws. Then I used some of the adhesive-backed foam padding from the Scout heater box to fashion a new lip around the top edge to seal up that section. It may need some more work, or thicker foam depending on how the whole thing ages, but we’ll see.
Rebrand
Interesting. I guess all good things come around again.
“After more than 120 years, we are choosing to return to our roots as International,” said Tobias Glitterstam, chief strategy and transformation officer.
[Incorrect curly quotes are taken directly from the website.]
As the employee of an NGO for over 10 years, I am so sick of the word transformation and all of its variants.
I can see the bones of the old International logo here in this new one, but somebody decided they needed to get clever with the A and the N, moving from a traditional grotesk typeface to something with a more “modern” look. I’m not completely opposed to it, but I think it’s going to be dated in 10 years.
September Update
Here’s a video with the September progress to date. This covers painting the door cards and heater box, mounting the outside mirrors, fixing the barn door, and disassembling the door locks.
Matte
Sunday morning I got out on the truck and got to work on some outstanding projects. The first was to finish mounting the mirror brackets with some rubber under the flat sections that touch the doors. When that was sorted out on both sides, I got the door panels prepped and ready for clearcoat. I had done some research and moved from the brand I was recommended at the Sherwin-Williams store, which only came in satin, to Duplicolor, which would provide the dull finish the original parts came with—and was considerably less expensive, especially when shipped through Amazon.
The clearcoat went on very easily and flashed quickly; when it was dry to the touch it looked exactly like I wanted it to: there’s barely any shine to the matte finish, which is exactly how the original panels looked. The heater box also looks great, and I’ll give it a couple of days to cure solid before I start reassembly.
I took some time to pull the locks in both doors and clean up the openings for a spray of rattle-can red. I have two new lock tumblers on order which should slot right into these barrels, and that way I can lock both doors from the outside.
Then I went to the barn doors to try and diagnose why the passenger side door won’t close properly. After some investigation I noticed that the bottom hinge was swinging inwards toward the door and preventing it from closing completely. I took some time to loosen the bolts on the hinges and eventually pulled both hinges outwards as far as they would go before tightening everything back up. Then I ground the corner of the hinge that was making contact with the door and tested things out: it closed up much easier than it had before.
With that done, did some more investigating under the dashboard to test out the existing wiper motor on the truck at this point I was pretty tired and wasn’t thinking as clearly as I could have been so I don’t think I was testing it properly. Realizing I had met my limitations for the day, I cleaned things up and made it inside by 5:30.
New Gray
It was a pretty quiet weekend here, but I’m still trying to get warm-weather things done before the cold weather hits. I did some work on the door cards I got up in Massachussetts to get them ready for paint. They were covered in about three inches of grease and dirt, so I played a hunch and used Easy-Off oven cleaner to clean them off. When I had all the crud removed I could see where the rust lived. Originally I was going to sandblast them but I figured that would take forever, so I just used the wire wheel to remove all of the bad stuff. Meanwhile I covered the back sides with Rust Converter to keep them clean.
Friday afternoon I went to the local Sherwin Williams Automotive and had them match and mix a quart of base color from the beat-up original door panel on the truck. I had them match from the area behind the door escutcheon, which hadn’t been dulled by UV rays over 60 years. After some back and forth I used some of their paint matching chips to get as close as possible in the sunlight out in front of the store. The best price I could get was on a quart of base coat in satin, which is going to need a final clearcoat at some point in the future. But the difference being roughly $200, I was happy to go with the more inexpensive option.
On Sunday morning, I cleaned everything off with acetone and got my table ready to shoot everything. All four panels needed two light coats for good coverage—the base was a lot thinner than the other paint I’ve been shooting.
Then I shot the heater box and heater cover. Everything flashed very quickly and within two hours was more than dry to the touch.
I hung all four-door cards on the truck to keep them out of the way and make sure they didn’t get scratched up in the garage.
Meanwhile, I was working on new mounts for the west coast mirrors. What I decided was to mount these using existing holes in the doors. There were, over time, about four different mirror installations on the truck, one of them being perfect for the mirrors I have. I bought four regular steel bolts and pushed them through the back sides of the doors to weld in place. Then I ground the backsides down as much as possible to give clearance for the weatherstripping and doors.
The passenger side still needed to be worked on: all the old holes had to be ground out and welded over like I did on the driver’s side. Then I cleaned those up, feathered some filler over them, and sanded it smooth. As of Sunday evening, both mirrors are hung on each door with a quick coat of basic rattle can red over everything.
The Sherwin Williams guy told me about some inexpensive clear coat I could get on Amazon much cheaper than in his store, so I’ve got that in my cart for next weekend. It’s a satin finish so it won’t be as dull as the original cards, but if it protects everything I’m not going to complain. And when the heater box is finished, I can reinstall that and get more of the stuff under the dash completed, which is one of the fall projects on my list.
Fall To-Do List
Now that the roof project has pretty much wrapped up, I’m turning my attention to the next tasks to tackle. Keeping a list handy will keep me focused on the right stuff. I do have a tendency to wander so I want to make sure I’m working on things in the right order and staying on task. Given that it’s September and the weather is starting to get colder, I’ve got to hustle to get some final things done before I’m unable to. So here’s a list in rough order of importance:
- Matching paint and painting the door cards/heater: I need to get the heater re-installed pretty quickly, so this one is high on the list. There’s a place locally that can match and mix automotive enamel, so I think this will be the priority in the next couple of weeks—before the weather really gets cold.
- 9.8: The paint is matched and shot. I still need to spray clear coat over this.
- 9.15: Clear coat is sprayed.
- Re-installing the heater box: this will be one of the priorities in the next couple of weeks; I want to get the whole thing put back together before it gets real cold, test it out, and make sure all the moving parts work.
- 10.12: the heater box is finished and installed; all cables are connected and the box is wired back into the panel.
- Weatherstripping: I’ve got to replace it on the front two doors now that the rears are done. And the barn doors need some love pretty quickly, too.
- Adjusting the barn doors to close properly: the passenger side door doesn’t like to latch, so I’ve got to sort this out. And it’s the one with the lock.
- 9.15: I took a look at this and have it closing better now. It’s not perfect but it closes.
- Mounting the mirrors: I’m going to weld threaded studs to the tops of the doors that I can use to mount the mirrors without drilling through them; this way none of the hardware will interfere with the weatherstripping on the other side. The bottom bolt holes still exist from the original mirror set.
- 9.8: The mirrors are mostly mounted and just need some finishing work.
- 9.15: Mirror brackets are mounted, but I need to fix the mounting post on one of them.
- Continuing work on the wiring: I’ve got to chase down the problem with the turn signals, add a dome light, add a license plate light and see if I can rig up some reverse lights. Oh, and maybe I can scab a radio in place.
- 10.12: the turn signals are back! One of the connections on the temp gauge came loose.
- Testing out the radio: Speaking of, I’ve got a stock 1967 radio from the Green Truck that may or may not work. I’d like to put it in the Red Bus but not if it doesn’t work.
- 9.8: this is actually a Ford product from the mid-60’s, so it’s not original. Still, it would be cool to use a period-correct radio. We’ll see.
- Building out the bench seats: This is a primary project for the winter. It’s going to take some time and effort to get both seats covered in foam and built, and I have to do some quick work to the frames to clean them up before going to fabric.
- Continuing to troubleshoot the clutch issues: I’m sure there’s more adjustment I can make to the clutch to get it to engage; I have to figure out what that might be and re-bleed the brakes again.
- Steering wheel repair: My brother-in-law scored me a very old and very tired wheel from a yard up in New York State. I’ve seen other folks online effect repairs with two-part epoxy and fancy OEM-grade paint; I’m going to take a whirl at this when the snow is flying and see how well I can make it work.
- Removing the insulation on the roof & adding sound deadener: Now that the roof is covered, the nasty, thin fiberglas that was glued to the inside roof needs to come down. This is going to be a dirty, messy job and I’m not looking forward to it, but I’d rather do it in the fall when I can wear a Tyvek suit and stay warm as opposed to sweating out a hot July afternoon. The goal is to get things as smooth as possible so I can replace it all with sound deadener/insulator.
- Rekeying the door locks: I’m going to pull the locks out of the green spare doors and see if I can get spare barrels to put inside so that I can actually lock the truck.
- 9.15: Door locks are pulled from all four doors, and new tumblers are on their way. I do need new retainer clips though, which are very pricy. Maybe I can steal one from a spare Scout II door…
- 10.12: Door locks are installed and working. That took some doing, but it’s done!
- Adjusting the front doors: Both of them have some sag. I tend to believe this is from the hinges needing work; further investigation is required. Luckily, I’ve got spare hinges from the Green truck that I can disassemble and refurbish without taking the Red truck apart.
- Building out an aluminum roof rack: I’ve got some basic plans for how I’d like to construct a rack for the back 3/4 of the truck, but I’ve got to do some calculations for how I’d construct it to bear the weight of things like a rooftop tent, spare tire, and/or solar panels. I’m thinking that I’d rent a TIG welder and get some basic aluminum and do a bunch of practice welding before I go nuts with this, but it’s definitely on the list.
- Sand down the spare hood for paint: The hood on the red bus is covered in three thick coats of paint, but I’ve got a green hood sitting behind the garage that would swap in very easily. I’ll have to read up on the best way to attack this—do I strip the whole thing, or just scuff off as much of the green paint as possible to prep it for primer?
- Sanding down the spare rear doors for paint: A nice-to-have. The passenger doors are in very rough shape outside; now that I’m more comfortable with shooting paint, I would love to get the rear passenger door broken down, stripped of paint and ready for IH Red.
Video Update
Here’s the video update from the last two weeks, which contains all the sanding and painting I’ve done on the roof.
Painting and Maintenance
I think the roof project on the Travelall is done. I scuffed and wet-sanded the first coat of paint on Sunday with 1500 grit paper, which basically knocked the shine down. From there I hit it with a tack cloth and prepped the tent for shooting paint. Because I was so wiped out from a trip to my FiL’s place on Saturday I didn’t really have the energy to do much more—I did re-splice the second wire off the large bulkhead connector to restore my marker lights but not the flashers, and I spent some time sanding and fixing the shitty peeling clearcoat and scratches on the drivers rear quarter panel. Those got a coat of rattle can international red which should keep them covered and protected for the time being.
Monday morning I put the tarps up around the ghetto tent, taped and papered off the entire truck, and got everything ready to shoot the second coat of white paint. I used more of it on the first coat that I had for the second, so I had to be careful in my application. I was able to cover the entire roof starting from the middle section out and I think I got good coverage. I probably could have dialed the gun in a little bit better – if I had a little more paint, I would have dialed it thicker. I think the air/paint mixture was a little too dry, and so it went on with a little more texture than it should have. But the whole thing is covered and I’m happy to have that part of the project behind me. I’m going to see how it weathers over the winter, and if it’s really sloppy and looks bad, I’ll wet sand the whole thing again, buy another can of the paint, and spray a solid second coat over it.
While that was drying, I turned my attention to the Scout. I drove it out of the garage over a tarp and pulled the fill plug out of the transmission. Nothing came out, so I drained the entire case. Then I dug out my fill pump and my last two cans of 50W racing oil. After pumping both of those into the case, it’s pretty clear there wasn’t 3 1/2 quarts still in it—I’m actually quite certain of that. Nobody had 50 weight racing oil around here locally so I ordered some from Amazon, which should be here on Wednesday. The next thing I’ve gotta find is a new PCV valve to replace the one on the truck. If that’s clogged, the pressure inside the crankcase was too high, and it may have blown the seal out of the back end of the transmission. But, I’m going to fill the case and drive it a bit to see if it’s still leaking very badly.