Here’s the latest video on truck projects, which includes the spring work on the Travelall, engine unlocking on the 800, and a sojourn to Brian’s garage to help move an engine and tear down a Hudson door.
Category: Scout 800
Unstuck!
The temperature outside never got above 20˚ today, but I still bundled up in three layers of warm workclothes to get as much done outside as possible before the snow really hits us. The forecast is for the storm to begin overnight, go all day tomorrow, and shift over to ice before stopping. Next week’s temperatures will be equally cold, so it won’t be going anywhere for a while.
First, I made a quick run to the store for some hardware and Hobo Freight for a medium-sized narrow prybar that I could put on the 800’s flywheel. The main task was to try to get the springs back on the Travelall. I started with the driver’s side, jacking it up and pulling the wheel off. I horsed the spring pack into place and got it oriented in roughly the right place, then finger-tightened the rear shackle in place. This was not easy, as my ribs and butt are still sore from snowboarding on Tuesday—using my body as fulcrum on the ratchet was pretty painful. I should have taken some ibuprofen before going outside. I have an old shop heater I keep running in the garage while I’m working, and I found I had to come in and warm the tips of my fingers up every half an hour or so.
The front bushing was about 2″ away from the front fang, so I had to be creative with a combination of wood wedges, a bottle jack, floor jack, ratchet strap, and Hi-Lift to compress the pack enough to stretch it out and get the holes aligned. I put new Grade 8 bolts in the front mount and tightened everything up, including the U-bolts and shock absorber. By this point in the day the sun was behind the clouds, the temperature was dropping, and I knew I didn’t have enough time to try to install the other side.
The truck sits a lot higher on the front wheel now, which is great to see—overall the stance looks much better and the truck doesn’t look like it’s being squashed on its haunches. I figure I’ll have to get it aligned after I do all the bushings in the steering gear, but this should make a huge difference in handling. I let the fuel pump run and with two pumps of the pedal, it fired right up. I ran it up for about ten minutes while I was cleaning up my tools and then buttoned everything up.
With the remaining light, I shifted over to the 800. All attempts to move it from the crank bolt this week have been a failure, even after I put a ratchet strap on the wrench and left it under tension. Crawling underneath, I put the new prybar on the driver’s side and tried working it toward the center. I was surprised to feel a small amount of movement, so I kept at it until I’d moved it about 6″. I went to the other side and moved it back to where I’d started, and then repeated the process. When I got to the tough section that originally stopped me, I worked it a little more and suddenly felt it give way with a whoosh of compression. Excited, I got up and put a ratchet on the crank bolt and found that it moved pretty freely.
This is a HUGE relief, as now I can start pre-oiling the cylinders, rig up a fuel system from the boat tank, re-install the radiator, and start testing the ignition system for spark. So far I’m only into this thing for the carb rebuild kit and the prybar, so $20 for some new points won’t hurt too bad. I’ve got a set of wires left over from Peer Pressure’s last tuneup, as well as spark plugs with maybe 10K miles on them, so we might be able to get this thing running for pocket change. We’ll see.
Locked Engine, New Springs
Here’s the latest video update, covering the locked engine and new springs on the red truck.
Cold January
Saturday morning I waited until it stopped snowing to get bundled up in work clothes to go take care of a bunch of truck stuff. My sister bought me a set of Redkap coveralls for Christmas, which, like all other work/utility brands were my correct measurements but cut for someone four times my size. We did some re-configuring and I traded up to a set of Dickies bib overalls which are a bit heavier, and I’m very pleased with how they fit—and they’re plenty warm too. Thanks Renie!
The first order of business was to see if the engine in the 800 had loosened up. I pulled the spark plug in cylinder 1, which is the only one still holding liquid, and found that it was still full. I decided I wanted to make life easier on myself, so I drained and pulled the radiator out, freeing up a ton of space so that I could put the breaker bar/pipe combination directly on the crank bolt without having to crawl in the mud under the truck. This was remarkably easy; the four bolts holding the rad/shroud combination came right out, and all I had to do was pull the crosswise support rods out to get it past the cooling fan. With that out of the way, there was suddenly all kinds of room to move in there.
The engine, however, would not budge. It’s been sitting for two weeks with ATF/acetone down each cylinder, and there has been no change. I’m happy to play the long game right now though before I go to the nuclear option and decide to pull the head off—there’s plenty more to do. I’ll just keep going out there and yanking on it every couple of days.
Over on the Travelall, I jacked the passenger side up and made pretty short work of pulling the front spring pack out. Back in the warm garage, I wire-wheeled the packs and mounting plates and sprayed the latter with some Rust-Stop before it got too cold. I had MLK Day off from work, so I drove into Baltimore and dropped them off at the shop where I had the rears done.
Meanwhile I’ve been gathering the parts to put in a working dome light, and I think I’ve got a plan put together. One of the first things I needed were special clips for two of the headliner bows, which I found at our local ACE hardware, and they fit perfectly in the factory channels. With all five bows in place, I now have something to hang dome lights from. I started the wiring part by looking at the factory diagram and realizing I’d perhaps missed one of the pins on the light switch, so I pulled the switch out, hosed it off with electric degreaser, and noticed that the copper contact on the rheostat for the dome light had broken off at some point in the past. I pulled the switch from the green truck dashboard, cleaned it up, and put it in DH. With the system wired up as I understood it from the diagram, I still wasn’t able to get light from the switch, and when I tried to stub in a door switch I blew the fuse.
About that time I got a call from the spring shop, who told me it was ready for pickup. Pleasantly surprised, I drove back into the city, paid them cash (I don’t sneeze at a $50 discount) and returned home with my updated spring packs. By then it was too dark to continue outside, so I stored them in the garage and called it a night.
I’ve been outside as much as possible, but the weather has been lousy for a while now so I moved to some indoor projects. When I pulled the steering column out of the truck in Pittsburgh, I got a basic tw0-spoke steering wheel as part of the deal, which matches the one in the 800. I pulled out the two-part epoxy I used on the steering wheel project last year. This wheel was sun-baked and cracked but not nearly as bad as the first one. With two rounds of epoxy and sanding, I’ve got it mostly ready for primer and paint.
Finally, Brian handed off a couple of new 3D prints of my dealer badge from a guy on his side of the bay who offers ABS as one of the options; ABS is much more temperature-resistant than the PLA prints I got at the library. I’m thrilled with the results, but I’m going to see if he can increase the size for me.
Metal Shaping With a Scout 800
I’ve seen Wray Schelin’s channel in passing before but I didn’t realize they’d done a series on metalwork featuring a Scout 800. The first three or four are pretty basic but they go into fabrication and TIG butt-welding later in the series, and I always like to watch and listen to pick up whatever new info I can.
New Scout Review
The latest video I posted features a pretty detailed walkaround of the new Scout, and then goes into mounting the doors back on the body and the first steps of cleaning out the carburetor and looking at the top half of the engine. I just got a carb kit delivered yesterday, but my quick attemtpt to put a prybar on the flywheel was met with failure. So I’ll continue soaking the cylinders and playing the long game.
Cold-Weather Updates
Taking full advantage of another day off, I returned to the garage and plugged in the space heater, for as much as that’s going to heat an uninsulated shack put up in the 1920s. Regardless, three layers of winter clothes helped cut the chill back and I found that when I kept moving, I stayed plenty warm. The first order of business was to move a bunch of large body panels and other spare parts into the greenhouse. I desperately need more room in the garage, especially in the winter months, and so moving a bunch of big bulky body panels out there really freed up a bunch of space. And, having the other panels that were stacked behind the garage now under cover helps me sleep a little better. All of the shelves and bins got reorganized, and I finally unboxed my new TIG welder, which is smaller than I thought it would be. I can’t wait to get a bottle of argon and start noodling with that.
With that done I warmed up Peer Pressure in the driveway and pulled the battery out of the Travelall to do some more electrical testing in the 800. I wanted to trace the wiring back into the dash to find the fuse panel, so I started at the bulkhead connector in the engine bay, isolating the two 14ga. blue wires that carry the main power to and from the ammeter on the dash. The connector was covered in grime and dirt, but a shot of electrical cleaner got rid of most of it. I unscrewed the two leads, wirebrushed everything, and connected it back up.
Inside the cab I pulled the glove box out after cutting the rusted screws off to allow better access to the wiring, and hosed more of the bolts down with penetrant. After I got a constant 12V there with the key on, I pulled the dash panel back off and looked for power there. I got nothing at the ammeter, the next link in the chain, so I pulled a replacement from my spares and put that in. The original unit in this truck was an aftermarket Stewart-Warner so something had happened with the original one at some point.
It took a while to get the new one on (25˚ with no gloves on cold metal makes for fumbly fingers) but after I cleaned all the other connectors, I connected the battery back up, waited for any visible smoke, and turned the key to ACC. I still got nothing on the panel, but I turned it off and back on and accidentally went past ACC and felt the starter bump! Elated, I tried it one more time, heard the starter catch, and saw the ammeter move, which means the broken link is now fixed. I’m still not getting any other electrics—the light switch isn’t working, for example—but if the starter is working, that’s a huge win.
Under the truck, I could only move the crank bolt a little bit, so I got under the transmission and pulled the flywheel cover off. It’s much easier to access than on Peer Pressure which is a good thing—I can get a flywheel wrench on it with no problem.
Saturday morning I drove the rear leaf springs from the Travelall down to a very sketchy industrial section of Baltimore to be worked on. The guys there told me the best thing to do is add two helper leaves instead of trying to re-arch them, so they’ll go from 7 leaves to 9 if I’m understanding them right. They’re going to replace all of the bushings and provide me with four new U-bolts to mount the springs back up to the axles. I have to go and source four bushing bolts for the body, even though the ones I pulled off look to be in good shape.
Unsprung
It’s cold here in Maryland—the thermometer is in the twenties but when the wind kicks up it goes into the low teens. This didn’t stop me, however, from bundling up and getting outside to get some stuff done on one of my days off. First, I mixed up a cocktail of ATF and acetone and poured it down each of the cylinders on the 800. There are many different schools of thought on the best penetrant for this kind of thing; some folks swear by Kroil or PBblaster, others use WD40, and still others swear by the ATF/acetone mixture. This is my first try with this homebrew mixture personally, so we’ll see how it goes. I also pulled the battery out of the Travelall and dropped it into the 800 to see if any of the wiring survived. Hooking the leads up produced no smoke or flames, so I turned the key to ACC and flipped the lights on with no results. I’m sure the mice got in and chewed up the harness somewhere, so I’ll have to hotwire the engine to start it, and eventually pull the dashboard apart to see what the full electrical story is.
Then I shifted focus to the Travelall. Jacking up the driver’s side rear, I pulled the tire and got the U-bolts off with little trouble. With that, the U-bolt plate and shock came off, so I moved to the rear spring perches and unbolted those from the body. Up front, after I adjusted my jack points to relieve weight on the leaf spring, I got the front unbolted and pulled the entire spring pack out from under the truck.
Having learned on the driver’s side, I had the passenger side off in about half the time, and left the truck high and dry with the axle only connected to the truck by the transmission and brake lines. Now I’ve got to get the spring packs into the shop for a rebuild, which will hopefully improve the ride. I expect the front springs to be much more of a challenge, but we’ll cross that bridge when we get to it.
Recovery Video
Here’s a video detailing the 800 recovery efforts. Again, I’m amazed at how easy this was on the whole. I guess that’s a good thing because getting it on the road is going to take a ton of work.
800 First Impressions
I’ve had some time to sneak out and fool with the new truck over the break and have learned a few new things about it. The first and biggest thing is that right now the engine is locked up. Having taken it out of gear and with a breaker bar on the crank bolt, the engine will not move. I pulled the spark plugs back out and dropped the bar scope down the cylinders and found they are pretty well full of gunk. So I dumped more Marvel mystery oil down each cylinder to hopefully so pass the rings. The only cylinder that was still holding liquid was number one, which may be the culprit, although I pulled the valve cover cover and found surface rust on the valve train above cylinders three and four.
It’s still too early to tell what’s going on, but a helping of patience and a whole lot of penetrating oil should get this thing moving again. I’m going to spring for a $25 bottle of Kroil because I’ve heard great things about it. Getting the valve cover off meant I had to move the heater hoses, so I took the heater core out of the loop completely. While I was in there, I scraped and vacuumed the dirt off the engine further to avoid getting crud in the valvetrain.
Meanwhile, I used the penetrating oil I did have to break the door mounting bolts free and hang both of the doors back on the truck for the first time in 20 years. When Dan took them off, he helpfully put the bolts back in either the A pillar or the doors, but sitting out in the elements fused those bolts in place. I used a handheld impact driver and a set of channel locks and got them all free enough to where I could hang the passenger door easily. The location of the truck made hanging the driver’s door a lot more difficult, because it was too close to the greenhouse to open wide enough. I put my snatch strap around the tree behind the truck and used a couple of ratchet straps to help me move it backwards. Then I got the door open wide enough to get two of the bolts on it.
Next I had to get both of the door access panels open to access the inner scissor mechanisms to help me get the windows up. The passenger door wasn’t that hard, but I had to break out the death wheel and a drill to remove the screws on that door. Once I was inside, I was able to get the windows up and hook them into the scissor mechanisms to keep them up. I also took the time to vacuum out the inside of the doors, which were full of dirt.
Then I pulled the dash panel off so that I could swap out the ignition barrel with one from my spares, and found that the wiring wasn’t in bad shape. And finally I moved the rearview mirror mount out of the way so I could drop the half cab onto the widnshield frame properly.
This truck is going to be a handful. It’s definitely the roughest of the three trucks I’ve bought. But I think it’s going to be the beater of the fleet, which means I’m not going to knock myself out ‘restoring’ it—I’m going to repair it and drive it, and most importantly, have fun with it.
But right now, I have to move my focus over to the Travelall, where I have to pull the rear springs to have them re-arched.