A New Project?

A couple of months ago I went bushwhacking with Bennett at Dan’s place, helping him catalog all of the vehicles up in the woods so that the family could sell them. I wasn’t interested in anything up there, and I had no idea what condition anything was in.

As we talked to the family, and they talked with another friend who was in a position to buy the majority of the vehicles as a lot, he gave a market price for each truck, and that number got me interested in one of the Scout 800s still up there. It’s the tan truck that was run and parked right behind the house, and when we first looked at it, the entire back half was covered in vines. I’d peeked underneath and found that it was full of garbage but the rear bed waas mostly intact, as well as the front footwells. We peeked in the engine compartment and found everything was still there.

Thinking it over some more, and being heavily invested in Brian’s EV project, I considered buying both of the Scouts for “research”. Bennett told me the blue Scout was mostly Bondo but the tan Scout was solid, and had been in excellent shape when it was parked. So I drove back up on Saturday to look it over.

Let me be clear: it’s not pretty. Having sat out in the elements with no top for ten years, it’s filled with dirt and debris. The paint is faded, and two of the four tires are flat. The aforementioned vines had covered the rear bed and trapped moisture underneath, as well as the rear bench seat.

The sheet metal on the outside is in reasonably good shape, although the rockers and B-pillar on both sides are shot—which is no surprise. The front fenders, cowl, and hood are in decent shape, and the tailgate looks good. Inside, the passenger footwell has several holes at the corner, but the driver’s side is solid. Both sides will need to be replaced, but it’s flat metal and easy to fix. The rear floor is the worst part: after years under two inches of dirt, the rear section is crispy. The worst part is the section behind the bulkhead, where the rear seat disintegrated and trapped water up against the vertical section. There are several holes in the metal here.

The original seats were pulled out and replaced with plastic racing buckets, which are interesting, to say the least. The dash has been exposed to the elements, so it’s covered in surface rust, and the padding is long gone. But the transmission hump is in great shape, and all of the parts are there.

Under the hood the engine is complete. It’s a 4-cylinder 196 with a frozen Holley 1904 carb and oil bath air cleaner. I put a socket on the crank and was able to move it slightly; in hindsight I never checked to see if it was in gear.

Having looked it over, I walked back into the woods to find the doors and bring them back out to the truck. Brendan had done a lot of work to drag the trucks he wanted out near the road, so it was much easier to walk back there and get to the parking area. I hauled both of the doors back out to the truck and hefted them up into the bed. They’re both in reasonably good shape for having sat on the ground for years. The lower edges haven’t crumbled to dust, which was a relief.

Behind the garage is a pile of extra parts that I wanted to look through, and I found a semi-intact half cab roof with a window that looks like it went with this truck.

I told Dan’s family I’m going to buy this truck. The price is too low to pass it up, and Scouts are getting rarer on the ground in this area. it’s just good enough to be worth something, and the price is right. I’m not too worried about being able to free the engine up, as I’ll have plenty of time to soak the pistons and get things moving, and the experience I’ve got with the Travelall will help me troubleshoot any issues. I’ve got three spare Scout wheels under the porch, so I can swap out the flats to get it rolling.

A long time ago we told Finley I’d fix a Scout up for her, and I did mean it, but always wondered how I’d swing it, knowing they’re not getting any cheaper. This could be the way into that. The long-term plan is to make this into a runner, and then maybe we’ll see about making it another EV project.  I think it would be fun as hell to have a typical crusty Scout body on top of a slick EV chassis, but that’s in the future. For now, I’ve got to make the deal and drag it home after the Thanksgiving break.

Posted on   |     |   Leave a Comment on A New Project?  |  Posted in Future Plans

Recovery

Bennett sent the Old Line Mafia a bunch of pictures last night that he got from Brendan, showing the the trucks at Dan’s being pulled out of the woods. It looks like Brendan went in there with a bushhog and a dozer and cleared out a ton of the brush and trees. He’s now got all the trucks staged to where he can haul them out one at a time.

He also pulled the blue Scout 800 up to the front where Brian and I can haul it out. If Dan’s family can find the title, we are hoping to grab that and the tan 800 for scientific research and R&D on the EV project.

Posted on   |     |   Leave a Comment on Recovery  |  Posted in Friends, Future Plans

Bump Start

While it may look from the outside like I go into every workday with a plan, the truth is that I rarely do unless I’ve got a clear plan mapped out. In the cases where there is no plan, I often spend the day bouncing from one small project to another letting my ADD get the better of me. So in the spirit of using this page both as a place to record what I’ve already done and keep a list of things I intend to do, here’s another list.

One of my main goals is to unstick the clutch in the driveway. The inspection cover is still off, and I’ve been squirting PBblaster between the flywheel and clutch disc every day, but I suspect I’ve got to do a couple of things to really make a difference:

  1. Put it in neutral and bump the starter to spin the flywheel around.
  2. Spray penetrant on this newly exposed area.
  3. Prop the clutch pedal down so it’s mechanically disengaged.
  4. Get underneath and, with a thin metal putty knife, and try to separate the clutch and flywheel.
  5. Add more penetrant, bump the starter to spin the disc, and repeat.
  6. If that doesn’t work, the next step will be to put it in high gear, hold down the brakes, and bump the starter. This might release the clutch.
  7. If that fails, the next suggestion is to get the truck idling to temperature to let the heat expand the two surfaces and hopefully the combination of that and penetrant will help unstick the two.

I’ve got to pick up some new fuel filters and exchange my long battery cable for a shorter one first, so a trip to the auto parts store is the first order of business.

Posted on   |     |   Leave a Comment on Bump Start  |  Posted in Future Plans, Travelall

EJ Classics

Here’s something I thought I’d never see. EJ Classics, who are affiliated with Dynacorn (makers of new sheet metal for many different muscle car platforms)  is producing new body parts specifically for the Scout II. The stuff I find most tempting right now are the doglegs that go at the base of the A and B pillars. It used to be you’d need to find a roached tub and cut the originals out to replace them, and a couple of years ago the Light Line dealers were hand-making them. Now I can get a set of A-pillar doglegs for $90, which is definitely in my price range.

Passengers A pillar
Passenger’s A pillar

Three of my four doglegs are in rough shape so this has been on my radar for years, and now that I’m feeling more confident in my welding and fabricating skills, this might be a project I can tackle this year. I’ve already got patches for the bottom of the inner cab wall, which need to be replaced on both sides.

Posted on   |     |   Leave a Comment on EJ Classics  |  Posted in Future Plans, Purchasing

Fall To-Do List

Now that the roof project has pretty much wrapped up, I’m turning my attention to the next tasks to tackle. Keeping a list handy will keep me focused on the right stuff. I do have a tendency to wander so I want to make sure I’m working on things in the right order and staying on task. Given that it’s September and the weather is starting to get colder, I’ve got to hustle to get some final things done before I’m unable to. So here’s a list in rough order of importance:

  • Continuing work on the wiring: I’ve got to chase down the problem with the turn signals, add a dome light, add a license plate light and see if I can rig up some reverse lights. Oh, and maybe I can scab a radio in place.
    • 10.12: the turn signals are back! One of the connections on the temp gauge came loose.
    • 11.10: License plate light is mounted and working.
  • Continuing to troubleshoot the clutch issues: I’m sure there’s more adjustment I can make to the clutch to get it to engage; I have to figure out what that might be and re-bleed the brakes again.
  • Cleaning off and painting the headliner bows: The ones I’ve got are good but covered in surface rust. I have to get them cleaned up and prepped for gray paint.
  • Steering wheel repair: My brother-in-law scored me a very old and very tired wheel from a yard up in New York State. I’ve seen other folks online effect repairs with two-part epoxy and fancy OEM-grade paint; I’m going to take a whirl at this when the snow is flying and see how well I can make it work.
  • Adjusting the front doors: Both of them have some sag. I tend to believe this is from the hinges needing work; further investigation is required. Luckily, I’ve got spare hinges from the Green truck that I can disassemble and refurbish without taking the Red truck apart.
  • Building out an aluminum roof rack: I’ve got some basic plans for how I’d like to construct a rack for the back 3/4 of the truck, but I’ve got to do some calculations for how I’d construct it to bear the weight of things like a rooftop tent, spare tire, and/or solar panels. I’m thinking that I’d rent a TIG welder and get some basic aluminum and do a bunch of practice welding before I go nuts with this, but it’s definitely on the list.
  • Send out the spare hood, 4 doors, and inner fenders for sandblasting: The hood on the red bus is covered in three thick coats of paint, but I’ve got a green hood sitting behind the garage that would swap in very easily. The passenger doors are in very rough shape outside; now that I’m more comfortable with shooting paint, I would love to get the rear passenger door broken down, stripped of paint and ready for IH Red.

Completed:

  • Building out the bench seats: This is a primary project for the winter. It’s going to take some time and effort to get both seats covered in foam and built, and I have to do some quick work to the frames to clean them up before going to fabric.
    • 11.1: Foam ordered!
    • 11.17: I’ve got all of the materials, and I’m ready to start on the upholstery process.
    • 12.1: The rear bench seat is complete.
    • 12.11: Seats are complete and mounted.
  • Removing the insulation on the roof & adding sound deadener: Now that the roof is covered, the nasty, thin fiberglas that was glued to the inside roof needs to come down. This is going to be a dirty, messy job and I’m not looking forward to it, but I’d rather do it in the fall when I can wear a Tyvek suit and stay warm as opposed to sweating out a hot July afternoon. The goal is to get things as smooth as possible so I can replace it all with sound deadener/insulator.
    • 11.17: Insulation is gone. The roof is wire-wheeled and ready for paint.
    • 11.24: Sound deadener is installed.
  • Weatherstripping: I’ve got to replace it on the front two doors now that the rears are done. And the barn doors need some love pretty quickly, too.
      • 11.1: Front doors are complete.
  • Mounting the mirrors: I’m going to weld threaded studs to the tops of the doors that I can use to mount the mirrors without drilling through them; this way none of the hardware will interfere with the weatherstripping on the other side. The bottom bolt holes still exist from the original mirror set.
    • 9.8: The mirrors are mostly mounted and just need some finishing work.
    • 9.15: Mirror brackets are mounted, but I need to fix the mounting post on one of them.
    • 11.10: Both mirrors are mounted and complete.
  • Matching paint and painting the door cards/heater: I need to get the heater re-installed pretty quickly, so this one is high on the list. There’s a place locally that can match and mix automotive enamel, so I think this will be the priority in the next couple of weeks—before the weather really gets cold.
    • 9.8: The paint is matched and shot. I still need to spray clear coat over this.
    • 9.15: Clear coat is sprayed.
  • Re-installing the heater box: this will be one of the priorities in the next couple of weeks; I want to get the whole thing put back together before it gets real cold, test it out, and make sure all the moving parts work.
    • 10.12: the heater box is finished and installed; all cables are connected and the box is wired back into the panel.
  • Rekeying the door locks: I’m going to pull the locks out of the green spare doors and see if I can get spare barrels to put inside so that I can actually lock the truck.
    • 9.15: Door locks are pulled from all four doors, and new tumblers are on their way. I do need new retainer clips though, which are very pricy. Maybe I can steal one from a spare Scout II door…
    • 10.12: Door locks are installed and working. That took some doing, but it’s done!
  • Testing out the radio: Speaking of, I’ve got a stock 1967 radio from the Green Truck that may or may not work. I’d like to put it in the Red Bus but not if it doesn’t work.
    • 9.8: this is actually a Ford product from the mid-60’s, so it’s not original. Still, it would be cool to use a period-correct radio. We’ll see.
  • Adjusting the barn doors to close properly: the passenger side door doesn’t like to latch, so I’ve got to sort this out. And it’s the one with the lock.
    • 9.15: I took a look at this and have it closing better now. It’s not perfect but it closes.

All Quiet on the International Front

It’s been very cold in Maryland the last couple of weeks, and with the short amount of daylight we’re getting there isn’t a whole lot of time to get anything done on the trucks while it’s warm. The Travelall has been under a snug car cover for the last couple of weeks and the Scout is snoring in the shed, both hooked up to battery tenders. I don’t see much happening on the trucks themselves until after New Years, because we’ve got to source a second daily driver with the loss of the Honda at Thanksgiving.

I have been in touch with Jeff J. about seat covers, however, and we’re formulating a plan for him to sew me new ones based on the pictures I sent up. I’ve got a source for foam identified, and when we get past Christmas I can place an order for supplies to work on them inside. I also checked in with Brendan B. about the power steering gear he offered me, and we’ve got that set aside for after the holidays when I can get up there to pick it up.

The other thing I think I’ll work on is the spare drinker’s side fender, which I got with a large hole cut out where the fuel filler used to be. Other than that, it’s in great shape, so I’m going to pull the trigger on some new metal from Sendcutsend, clean up the area, and spend some time welding a new fuel filler assembly in place.

Weekly Roundup, 9.22

Currently, we have Tropical Storm Ophelia blowing through Maryland, bringing rain and high winds all the way up the Chesapeake Bay. I’ve been keenly aware of the weather ever since I took the canopy down over the truck, wondering how the cowl repairs will hold up in the rain. Before the surgery, an hour of rain would soak the floorboards, all the water dumping directly down through the rusty holes. From what I can tell now, after 12 straight hours the repairs have all held up really well. There’s no water penetration from above; all I can see are small rivulets forming from dried-out weatherstripping around the doors.

The question is, which door seals do I need? There are three offered by most Light Line dealers: an interior door edge seal, a door seal set, and a pillar door seal set. I have the pillar door seal set, which looks like it goes along the inside of the door and is glued in with sealant (which I don’t have). They’re getting familiar with me at IHPA, so I’ll have to call over there and get the details.

In back, the new window is sealed tight, but the rear window on the driver’s side is leaking from a 1″ split in the gasket up top. So I’ve added another rear window gasket to the purchase list. I think I’m going to have the installer from last week come back out and give our luck another shot replacing that side.

Someone on the Round-Body Travelalls FB group posted a very interesting picture of a Travelall with a brand-new bumper, and mentioned that the bumper for a 1957-60 Ford F-150 will fit a Travelall and look very similar to boot. My bumper looks like it was dragged behind the truck and then re-attached with bubble gum, so I think maybe this will be an option—I don’t foresee tripping over a C-series bumper in good shape anytime soon.

I called Super Scout Specialists to inquire about what a new dash wiring harness would cost, and the guy who assembles them is supposed to call me back. I’m going to ask him what it would cost to add circuits for A/C, power steering (I may go electric), trailer lights, charging ports, and a couple of spares, as well as swapping the fuse panel to spade fuses. That will be the next big project—pulling the dash apart and sorting out the electrical system (god help me).

On the Scout side, everything is running quietly as it should. I noticed that my temperature gauge is now dead, so I threw a temp sender in our biweekly Amazon cart for replacement. If that’s not the issue, I have something like six spare gauges in my parts stash that can easily be swapped in.

More Future Projects

The Scout is sitting inside a garage down outside of Annapolis as terrible thunderstorms rumble overhead, waiting on a used exhaust heat riser to ship from Ohio. An exhaust heat riser is a valve that stays closed on startup and heats the manifold quickly, which is supposed to lower emissions. My truck, being a 1979 model, came with all of the emissions garbage they could think of that year to try and appease the EPA for an engine designed in the late 1950’s; there are more hoses on that engine than a garden supply store. Anyway, over time, the valve seizes up and stays closed, which is what it sounds like mine has done. This part isn’t regularly made for Scouts anymore, so Super Scout Specialists is sending us a used unit and we’ll throw that in to see if the leak disappears. I’m going to have my mechanic save the old one so I can disassemble it and weld the holes for the shaft closed: I can then use it for a replacement when this valve dies.

Because I am a dipshit and I’ve had Travelall on the brain almost exclusively lately, I completely forgot about two other Scout projects that have been sitting quietly in a box in the basement since the end of winter. I’m in a bit of a holding pattern on the Travelall until I get some stuff organized, so I thought I’d look through the box and get things sorted out.

  • I bought new wing window rubber for the Scout very soon after they started producing it. Both wing windows on Peer Pressure feature crumbling, UV-blasted rubber. Both of the mounts on each window are broken at the pivot spring underneath, which basically means the window opens and flops around in the slipstream. And the passenger wing latch fell off, so it doesn’t stay closed. In my parts stash I have a grand total of seven spare wing windows: three loose units I’ve collected from parts trucks, and four that were installed in the four spare doors I’ve got. Among all of these spares, I have a total of two that aren’t busted to shit. So I pulled a good left and right unit out of the parts doors and gave them a once-over. Both are OK except that the left unit doesn’t have a latch—but I’ve got spares of those.The lower left brace on the right unit was loose: the spot welds were giving way, so I busted out the MIG and tacked it back into place with little trouble. I brought them down to the basement workbench to be refurbished during rainy weekends in front of a football game.

  • I’d completely forgotten that I also bought a new battery pan for the Scout to replace what’s left of the factory pan in there now. It’s a beefy chunk of bare metal and needs a scuff, a coat of etching primer, and several coats of strong black paint (and maybe a layer of undercoating) before I put in in the truck. It’s got three bolts welded underneath to mount to the inner fender—I’ll have to check my spare fender a little more closely to see if this will be just a simple task of cutting the old one out and bolting the new one in (the two holes on the right side of the shelf area below).But once the truck is back I can install that, and set up a proper battery hold down situation; the battery is currently held in place with a tired bungee cord. Because that’s how I roll.

Future Projects

September is here, and Finn is back in school, and the mornings aren’t quite as warm as they were a few weeks ago. I’m looking at the fall as a time to wrap up some of my current projects and the winter for tackling some new ones where I don’t need to be outside. To recap, here’s where we currently stand on the Travelall:

The cowl area is complete; now the windshield needs to go back in and I have to put the hood back on in order to close the truck up for the winter. I’d like to install new weatherstripping around the doors as well, but I’m going to work with what I’ve got.

I took some time to troubleshoot the starting issue—she was starting normally for a long while and decided to stop the week I worked on the cowl. On Sunday I ran through all of the basics—tested for spark, filled the carb bowl, and made sure the choke was working correctly—and finally got her to light off but not stay running. I knew the fuel lines were all clean; they’re brand new all the way back to the tank. So I replaced the fuel filter I’d placed between the pump and the carb, which was full of black sediment, and lit her off again. She caught and suddenly ran more smoothly; fuel was spurting happily into the filter where I hadn’t seen anything before. I’d hooked a couple of 4″ PVC pipes to the tailpipe pointed out behind the garage so I let her run for five or ten minutes to get warm and see how the engine responded. I topped off the radiator and waited until the top rad hose felt hot; I don’t have a working temp gauge in the truck so I don’t know if the thermostat opened. I’ll put a laser sensor on it next time I run it and see where the filler neck reads. I didn’t have time to test the clutch or brakes, though—and I already see one leak at the junction above the rear axle.

With winter approaching, I’ve got three projects in mind, two of which I should be able to tackle indoors and out of the elements:

  1. The top is still a patchwork of primed spots; I’d like to get one full coat of primer on the whole thing and, ideally, spray the whole top out with IH red. With the weather getting colder this may be tricky, but if I’ve still got the canopy over it I won’t have to worry about dew or leaves falling into new paint.
  2. I’ve got two full bench seats waiting for new material. This will start with burlap over the springs, several layers of strong foam, and new upholstery. I’ve got an IH friend who specializes in period-correct patterns and materials, and he’s teed up to produce some vinyl coverings for me. My brother-in-law has hog ring pliers and all the rings I need to complete this project, which is fantastic.
  3. Thinking ahead to lockable storage in the truck, I surveyed the rear bed to see if I could sink a steel lockbox into the floor in the center or on either side of the rear axle. Unfortunately, because the frame was an offshoot of a pickup truck design, it wasn’t engineered for space efficiency. The frame and axle take up a huge amount of space toward the front of the truck, and the beefy hitch mount running up the middle prevents me from dropping a deep well at the back. It’s not out of the question; there’s space above the hitch bar where I could drop a 30″w x 15″l x 5″d metal box in the middle of the floor, and I may well do this. It’s just not very deep—unless I build it with a hump in the middle. More planning will be required.There’s a guy on YouTube who has the same model Travelall who replaced the factory tube cage holding the rear bench with a lockbox, taking advantage of ~2376 cubic inches of space. I’ve already started sketching out some plans for a similar box made out of 1″ square tube and a bunch of the 16 gauge sheet I’ve got sitting in the garage. My plan is similar to his in that I’m planning on two top-mounted doors accessible from either side, using piano hinges and flush-mounted truckbox handles. The axle hump takes up a fair bit of the space inside, but having someplace to lock tools and parts is key. I’ll probably buy another 40MM ammo can and use that for additional storage in the rear section.

Posted on   |     |   Leave a Comment on Future Projects  |  Posted in Future Plans, Travelall

Weekly Roundup, 3.24

I removed three sections of the inner fender skirting a couple of weeks ago in order to look at the starter and wiring. In the video above, they would hide the frame rail at about 1:30—you can see the speed clips that hold them in there. I’d cleaned them up with the wire wheel and sandblaster last weekend, and took advantage of 60˚ weather today to shoot them with Rust Encapsulator and then two coats of flat black. They’ll get one shot of undercoating and then go back on the truck so that I don’t forget what they are or where they came from.

A big box sealed with IHPA stickers arrived on Monday. Inside were two wrapped bundles: Volume 1 and Volume 2 of the 1962-71 Pickup & Travelall Service Manual, unbound, prepunched for a 3-ring binder. Each bundle is about 2″ thick, so I have to hit the Staples to find a solid pair of binders to protect them. This will be my bible for the next couple of years as I resurrect the Travelall, and I’m sure it will pay for itself many times over.

Looking through my books, I realized I have thre different Scout service manuals—a new bound reprint, and two original IH printed copies, one of which is incomplete. This makes me think of building a list of stuff to bring up to Nationals to sell:

  • Original bound IH Scout II service manual
  • A somewhat ratty Scout 80 windshield—I might have to clean this up before I bring it out there
  • An early Scout 80 heater plenum, not refurbished
  • A spare Scout II windshield—it’s not pretty, but it’s worth good money
  • A spare rear Scout II seat
  • A (mostly) complete Scout II air conditioning setup—IH compressor, cabin unit, and refurbished stock plenum
  • An air cleaner for a V8 (the diameter of the air cleaner opening is too narrow for my Thermoquad)
  • A 1965-66 grille for a D-series pickup (this is the original I bought for the red bus that doesn’t fit).

In order to not make the folks running Nationals mad, I’m going to post them on the Binder Planet with a clear note that I’m bringing them with me to exchange but  that I’m not interested in shipping. I figure the Scout windshield, D grille and maybe the 80 windshield will sell.

Speaking of Nationals, I sent in my registration last week and blocked off my work calendar, so I’ll be headed out to Ohio the first full week of June. I’m planning on leaving Thursday so we get there on Friday with enough time to scope the new venue out (it’s in Springfield this year, not at the Troy airfield) so things will be a bit different. I think we’re staying at the same hotel we always do, however.

In the meantime, I put the Travelall on my Hagerty insurance plan to prepare for a trip to the MVA for a title and plate change. For that process, I need the Vermont paperwork, the bill of sale, and proof of insurance. I’m in no rush there, but it’s good to have it on the policy.

On Tuesday I swapped the aftermarket roof racks from the Scout over to the Travelall in preparation for three solid days of rain; I’m going to lay some boards down over top of the racks and then hang a tarp over the whole thing to keep the cowl and windshield section dry. This is going to be the strategy for keeping her out of the rain until I can remediate those problems, and I figure it’s going to go through some modifications until I get it sorted out. The other bonus is that I can drop some plywood down and sit or lay on the roof rack while I grind out the rust up there, instead of working on a ladder. We’ll see how that goes.

Another package arrived today: a true ’63-’64 grille for the Travelall. This one is indented on either side to avoid the headlight buckets, and the grille pattern should allow for getting one’s hands inside to release the secondary hood latch—the current vertical grille makes that pretty much impossible. It’s not perfect, but perhaps some careful straightening and polishing will get it looking better—and who am I kidding, nothing on the truck looks good right now. Also, I can bolt it in place instead of relying on zip ties.

Looking at the cab floors the other day I investigated a little further and saw that they were both cut out and replaced with flat steel at some point. From what I can see the steel was laid over top of the old floor but I can’t see how it was attached—whether it was welded, glued, or something else. That’s not bad news, actually, because I might be able to cleanly cut out the bad stuff and weld in some good stuff on the driver’s side. The passenger side is the question: it looks like that’s the original floor.