Now, With More Seating.

This weekend, I finally solved the mystery of the rear bench seat. When last I’d attempted to swap out the bench that came with Peer Pressure (a fantastically ugly, ripped pillowed vinyl) I was stymied by two latches that hook around posts mounted on the inner wall of the wheel well. The latches were too high and didn’t catch the posts, making the seat an unsafe proposition for any passengers I might be transporting. (in the event of a sudden stop, the seat would most likely shift forward, squishing passengers between the seat and the seatbelts they were buckled into).

Saturday evening, while moving three benches around the garage, I finally noticed something missing from the original bench, and everything suddenly made sense. IH mounted two feet on the bottom rear of each seat, which propped it up off the floor by about 2″. These feet were missing from the bench the truck came with—they had been knocked off with a hammer. I reasoned that once the feet were gone, the seat sat lower on the floor and the latches were able to swing under the posts correctly. So I busted out the POR-15 and painted up two mounting brackets in preparation for Sunday afternoon.

After I’d knocked the feet off of one of the spare benches (no pillowtop, thank GOD), I sat it in the bed, adjusted the sides, and bolted it into place just as easy as could be. The only thing left to do now is scoot the Tuffy console forward about two inches so that fold becomes fold-and-tumble. And, after unbolting the set of belts it came with, I can get rid of the original bench and reclaim that much more space in the garage.

Sunday afternoon I took a quick trip down to visit Brian H, who has taken a Sawzall to his driver’s floor, and we shot the breeze for a half hour or so. He’s making adjustments to his cab before welding in all new metal—floor mounts, rocker, the whole works. What he’s got done so far looks good, and his welds are really coming along. He’s trying to get her back on the road for next weekend’s trip to Bennett’s farm…I’m pulling for him.

Digital Man.

The Wal-Mart radio that came with Peer Pressure was OK from a sleeper point of view. It worked fine (once I’d added speakers) but it was a lot like a Chevette: You’d never go through the trouble of actually trying to steal it. After using it for several months, I remembered why analog tuning sucked so bad back in the day: stations went in and out of tune with alarming speed and frequency.

Thus began the replacement process. I pulled the old unit out and put it aside. A dremel wheel attached to my corded drill cut most of the hole for a DIN-9 sleeve, and an angle grinder trimmed the hole to fit. Once I’d made an allowance for the radio, I needed to get a constant power source to it in order to supply power for the memory and presets. Fortunately the new positive battery cable I’d added when the starter crapped out had a pigtail right from the terminal, so I soldered a 14 gauge wire to a male lead, fed the wire through the firewall at the heater wire, and soldered a 5-amp inline fuse to the end. Once I got everything connected to the radio, it all went back in with a snap, and I took the extra time to replace a couple of bulbs in the speedo (the ones I could reach, at least) before replacing the dash panel. Voila! Digital tuning, iPod accessibility, a CD player, and a detachable face.

New head unit

It looks like I’m going to need to drop the A/C ducting in order to get anywhere near the underside of the dash, which is a drag, but I won’t miss it since it doesn’t currently work. Plans for another day…

My next short-term goal is to POR-15 the seat mounts and put a rear seat back in; I’d like to use one of the nicer benches I’ve got so that I can get the other two out of the garage, but that’s going to take an afternoon of adjusting that I don’t currently have.

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Radio Delete.

Looks like someone boosted my tunes
Looks like someone boosted my tunes

Last night I finished grinding a dash cover plate down enough to fit a DIN-9 sleeve for my spare Kenwood radio. I stole out into the garage at 10:30 and pulled the Wal-Mart special, marked off the relevant wires, and test-fitted the Kenwood. Unfortunately, there was no juice. I think part of the problem is that the new deck needs constant power and switched power from the key; I’ve got switched power but noplace to draw constant power from the battery. So next I have to figure out how to make that happen.

In other news, I ordered two replacement J-hooks from SSS yesterday in preparation for my gas tank swap. Now that the weather is calming down, I need to set aside a day to make that happen.

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Small Progress.

Eraser wheel at work

I took a little time out last night to try out a tool I’ve had sitting on the workbench since March. Given the fact that it’s been raining constantly this week, I pulled the instrument panel cover off the truck and put the eraser wheel to it in order to remove adhesive residue from a factory-installed sticker. When I say eraser wheel, I really mean eraser wheel; it left eraser shavings behind that could have come from a drawing class.

Finished product
Finished product

It did make short work of the adhesive, though, which then prompted me to try the Dremel tool I’d bought around the same time. The goal is to install a DIN-9 sleeve and a Kenwood head unit I’ve had laying around since we sold the Jeep: it has an iPod input, a CD player, a removable face, and most importantly, digital tuning. The Wal-Mart special works fine but stations fade in and out in the space of a quarter-mile, which means it’s useless without an iPod. I got about 2/3 of it cut before I ran out of cutting wheels (I ground them down to nubs) and I’ll have to widen it out some more, but it’s looking much better than the hack job I inherited.

Opening opened
Opening opened
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Running.

Thanks Mr. Clean!

Update: Saturday morning, Evil Mr. Clean and I took a brief jaunt out to Crazy Ray’s in Mt. Airy to see if we could find a radiator for Heavy D. What we found was much better pickings than the Jessup location, which is geared more towards later-model cars. Mt. Airy has late-model stock too, but they have rows of 50’s-era iron and some trucks I never thought I’d see at Jessup. We found a 200-series truck of the same vintage as his and had the radiator and shroud out in ten easy minutes. I pulled the washer bottle for the motor mounted underneath. Behind that was an 800 with a V8 in pretty poor shape, from which I swiped the speedo dial. I wanted to stop and pull two more, from a 50’s Chevy pickup and a flat-fendered Willys Jeep, but we were pressed for time. (I did grab a replacement dome light for the Saturn, which made me happy).

IMG_4306

We headed back to the house to swap out my starter with his spare. It took a little doing; the top of the starter doesn’t allow for a thick box-head wrench to get a bite on the bolt. Once we’d wriggled it loose, the whole unit came off pretty quickly and we had the replacement bolted in in minutes. After taking some time to clean the electrical leads with some sandpaper and patch up a bare patch of copper with some tape, we reconnected the whole unit and turned the key. Success!

After lunch and a parking lot comparison of the two trucks, EMC left and I had a little time to spare. I tested out the new wiper bottle I’d scored and then used some spare hoses and fittings from the Wheaton Scout to connect my windshield washer nozzles. Success!

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Plug Update.

I did a dumb thing the other day. I ordered a box of plastic vacuum plugs from Amazon before going downstairs and doing a little more investigating on my gas tank. I got fixated on covering the preinstalled brass fittings without considering the obvious: remove them (they’re all threaded, of course) and find threaded brass plugs to replace them. $10 at the Home Depot and I’ve got five 1/4″ square-head plugs that will cap off all the unneeded ports with no fear of disintegration.

It appears, though, that I’ll most likely have to buy a new set of J-hooks for the tank straps I’ve got; the advice I’m reading on the Binder Planet says the OEM nuts will most likely snap off the ends of the bolts.

Now, I just need a warm, free weekend day to pull her out of the garage and drop the tank.

Update: Here’s one of the plugs installed.

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Undersea Cable.

Last week, when the weather was getting warm and sunny, I was itching to get the old girl on the road. I was foiled, however, by an intermittent starting problem. Specifically, I could get her to start easily, and an hour later I’d get lights and radio but nothing from the engine—no click, no grind, nothing. Putting the battery on an overnight trickle charge gave me enough juice to get her started Friday morning, but I was wary when I got in her to drive home.

A little research points me to the battery cables, which have been problematic since the day I bought this truck. On Thursday evening I stripped about two inches of insulation from the terminal side of the cable and found green corrosion inside, so I’m going to need to find a new cable and a way to seal it up tight. SSS sells a positive cable for $80, which is pricey. Rock Auto sells one for $12 but I don’t know what gauge or length it is. I think i need to see if Evil Mr. Clean can hook me up with some of the cables like he’s got.

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Small Victories.

This weekend I took advantage of a free hour and some sunny weather to address some small problems:

  1. Took the driver’s door apart to figure out why the scissor mechanism was binding up when I tried to roll the window down. It turns out the circle clip had popped off the bottom of the front window track, which knocked the linkage out of alignment. I popped the clip back on, shot everything with more white lithium grease, and buttoned it back up. Problem solved!
  2. I pulled the speakers out of the sidewall and installed foam baffles behind them (Thanks, Mr. Scout!) to improve acoustics—HA—and protect the cones and magnets from flying crud and water below.
  3. Next, I rigged together a temporary battery holder from the collection of bolts, wires, and threaded rod the PO left behind, and added a bungee cord for good measure. I’ve got to look at how they did it from the factory and see if I can come up with a permanent solution.
  4. I also got underneath and shot the bolts holding the gas tank on with some PB Blaster (this is when having a 4″ lift comes in really handy).
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Sender Sent For.

I’ve been doing a lot of pick-up consulting work lately, which means there’s been a welcome dribble of extra cash coming in the door. Which is good, because the Scout STANK of raw gasoline last week when I drove it to work. The main source of the fumes were from the rear, and because she was parked on a slight incline, I’m inclined to believe the top seal is bad. So I ordered a new sending unit yesterday from SSS, and when the weather gets warmer I’m going to finally drop the old tank and replace it with the new one.

Update: The sender’s in, and it looks like the proper gasketry is intact on the tank. I’ll have to unscrew the round metal retainer ring in order to get the sender in properly, then screw everything back into place. The next issue is figuring out a good safe way to plug off all of the vent tubes.

Fuel Sender

Auto-Tune.

Mama’s been sick for the past couple of days, so I haven’t had much spare time, but I decided to use Finn’s Friday nap to install my new speakers. I ran the included wire down the inside of the fenders and up the frame rails to the transfer case cover, then up under the dash to the Wal-Mart receiver. Everything is held together with electrical tape until I get a shrink-wrap kit and some time to tear the dash down correctly. I also still need foam baffles for the backs of the speakers and some cheapo grille covers to protect the tweeters, and I’ll use thicker wire when everything gets run permanently. But there are tunes! And those suckers are LOUD.

Helper

While I had the dash half apart, I replaced the bulbs in the two leftside gauge pods with new sockets and bulbs, which work much better. I couldn’t get the speedo pod out in time to replace those bulbs, and I still haven’t been able to reach the nuts that clamp in the switch labels (the clear plastic bars under the knobs) in order to swap those out.

Update: I did some sleuthing to figure out why my left indicator comes on and stays on when I turn the headlights on; apparently I have to do some work on grounding the light housings.

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