Category: Travelall

EFI Progress

Saturday afternoon was free of commitment, so I made a plan Friday night. I’m still working backwards with the EFI to try and diagnose the fuel/air mixture issues, so I thought I’d try to replicate the success I had two weekends ago by swapping the old carb back on, run the engine up to temperature, and then slap the Sniper back on to see if it would begin learning.

The first thing I did was download updated firmware to the SD card and updated the handheld and computer in the carb. The original file was six years old, so I figure they’d made a lot of updates since then.

I set the worktable up in the driveway, hauled all of the tools and hardware back out, and set up a camera. Pulling the Sniper off and putting the old carb on is easy at this point, and while I was there I removed the clear fuel filter I’d installed after the first two on the EFI fuel line. I strapped the boat tank to the bumper, connected the battery leads to the electric pump, and filled the float bowl. It only took two turns of the key to get it to light off, and with one adjustment I had it idling happily. I let it run for about ten minutes with the cap off the radiator, and then noticed it began bubbling, so I put the cap back on. I’d topped  the cooling system off with about 3/4 of a gallon last week so I wasn’t afraid to run it this time.

When it was good and hot I shut it down, capped off the fuel, and pulled the 2300 off the engine. The Sniper went back on easily (I hadn’t disconnected anything) and I connected the electrical leads back up to the battery. Crossing my fingers, I fired up the engine and smiled as it started idling smoothly—faster than I wanted, but smoothly. I let it idle for a while and recorded a couple of log files for diagnosis, then shut it down to see if it would start and run consistently, which it did.

Then I tried to use it to bump the clutch, where you basically put it in middle gear, stomp the brakes, and start the engine. The force of the starter is supposed to break the clutch away from the flywheel. But my starter is very sick, so I couldn’t get it to budge. I shut the engine down and let it cool off for the evening.

Sunday morning between showers I walked back out and tried a cold start. This was the real test: to see if the Sniper unit had learned anything. I said a prayer, turned the key, and it fired right up—but more importantly, it idled smoothly and a lot slower than it had when it was warm. I did hear the fuel pump whining on the rail when I gave it gas, so I have to ask the pros whether or not that’s normal. I took another data log and saved it to my computer, and buttoned the truck up as it began raining.

The other thing I noticed was that the engine is leaking at the mechanical fuel pump location, so I fabbed up a flat steel block off plate out of 16 ga. steel for when I get under there and pull the pump off.

That’s about all I can do this week with our trip to Nats coming up; I haven’t heard back from the transmission shop yet, but I’m going to call on Monday to see if they can give me a time estimate, and that will dictate my travel plans.

Posted on   |   by bill   |   Leave a Comment on EFI Progress  |  Posted in Fuel Injection, Travelall, Video

Musical Carbs

I had a plan going in to Sunday morning, after sitting back and thinking about all of the symptoms I’ve been facing with the carburetor. Typically when i’m working on mechanical or computer problems I’ll diagnose things backwards until I get to something I know is working. Then I move forward until I’ve identified the fault. On the carburetor, I knew that the engine spark timing was off, and the only good way I know to adjust that is to loosen the distributor while the engine is running and spin it slowly until the idle smooths out. 

I figured the best way to do this was to put the old Holley 2300 back on the engine and work through the problem mechanically. Unbolting the Sniper from the engine, I put it aside, resting on some cardboard, and disconnected all of the wiring. I pulled the old  carb from one of my spares bins and swapped it onto the engine, plumbing it to the boat tank through an electric fuel pump. With a couple squirts of 50-1 gas in the throat, the engine fired right up but sounded very choppy and died off after about 10 seconds. I got a couple of backfires out the throat of the carb—a sure sign of bad timing.

After verifying this was consistent behavior, I got it running long enough to get out to the distributor and slowly twist until the idle smoothed out and the throttle picked up. Then I tightened the mixture screws (they were wide open from last fall, when I was battling the dead condenser thinking it was a fuel issue) and adjusted the throttle until it was idling happily by itself. 

Relieved, I let it run for about 10 minutes and shut it down, figuring it was warmed up enough to give the Sniper a hand. The learning feature in the Sniper control unit kicks in after the engine is warmed up past 160˚, and that was what I was shooting for: I wanted it to learn how to adjust the fuel/air mixture and self-meter. Friday evening I’d pulled the water neck open and examined the thermostat that was in the engine. I figured I’d find something crustier than a wino’s beard but the passages and thermostat looked almost brand-new, which was a pleasant surprise. I put a new 180˚ unit in and closed it back up.

I hustled around the engine and got the Sniper back in place in about 10 minutes, verifying I had reconnected the electric leads to everything, said a Hail Mary, and fired it off. It started immediately, and ran a lot smoother than it originally did—but was still hunting for the right fuel/air ratio, surging and fading. I let it run for a couple of minutes, noting that the temperature was reading 178˚ but knowing that the radiator wasn’t full, and shut it down after watching the Learn setting on the control unit struggle to balance things out. 

I tried to restart after a couple of minutes but the battery sounded tired, so I hooked the tender back up and let it cool down. The Sniper says it’s reading 14 volts when the engine surges, but I’d bet the alternator is dead so I’ll source a new one after I verify its condition. 

So: I know that the timing on the engine is set more correctly than it had been. I know that the Sniper will start the engine and run more consistently than it had been. I know I probably need to adjust the timing settings in the control unit again to better match the engine, and I know that the water passages are clean—but need more coolant.

With a little more time to kill, I got my 3M automotive tape out and finally put the International badge on the rear door. Looking at the rear quarter, I decided I wanted to add the Travelall badge that belonged there too. With the taillight removed I was able to see where the bondo had filled up the original mounting holes and used a chisel to carefully scrape it away to where I could see them. Then I drilled them out and widened them until the posts on the badge fit the holes perfectly. With some more tape the badge went on easily, and now the truck looks even more legit than before. 

Posted on   |   by bill   |   Leave a Comment on Musical Carbs  |  Posted in Carburetor, Fuel Injection, Travelall

Puddin’s Steering Column

The guy who inspired me to build the seat lockbox for Darth just did another video where he swapped in an Ididit steering column to his ’68. His setup was a bit more complicated because his truck is a column shift and he swapped a Crown Vic subframe/GM powertrain, among other things, but he’s a lot more experienced with fabrication than I am.

Posted on   |   by bill   |   Leave a Comment on Puddin’s Steering Column  |  Posted in Inspiration, Travelall

Spark Testing

My plug wires showed up yesterday, which was a surprise. After using the Scout to jump the OG-V (the dome light stayed on for some reason and drained the battery) and charging that up, I put the spark tester on cylinder 3 and turned it over: there was no spark. Then I put the tester on the coil and cranked it again: there was one initial spark and then nothing after that. This is puzzling, and clearly something isn’t configured correctly. But it checks out with what the engine was doing earlier—in previous attempts it would almost catch and then just crank.

Posted on   |   by bill   |   Leave a Comment on Spark Testing  |  Posted in Fuel Injection, Travelall

Lazy Sunday

I had every intention of diagnosing the ignition issues on Darth Haul on Sunday, but the universe conspired against me. The weather forecast was for rain, which I could work around with a pop-up canopy, but Amazon decided the spark plug set I needed for my 8-cylinder engine should only require 5 wires. This from a “guaranteed fit”. Nobody around here had the plugs I need in stock, so the day was literally a wash. I’ve got new plugs on order which should be here Monday, and I can keep troubleshooting after work.

For the last two weeks I’ve been experimenting with leaving the cover off the truck to see what kind of water ingress I’m getting around the cowl vents and the door seals. The rain started Saturday night at midnight and continued on and off throughout the next day. Looking through the cab of the truck at noon, there’s a little bit of water dripping on both sides at the floorboards that I’ll have to track down, but nothing at the volume that was coming in before I cut the cowl out. There’s a small 1/4″ plug in the roof that I didn’t weld up when I repaired that, which is dripping on the front seat; that will just require some butyl or silicone caulk to fix. Finally, the driver’s rear window gasket is leaking a little bit at the very back corner.

The alternative is leaving a cover on the truck all the time, but I’ve found that the cover I have doesn’t breathe very well and moisture gets trapped underneath—to the point where the engine bay looks like it’s sweating. That’s not good at all. So I’m going to leave the cover off for the next month and see if I can stop the leaks enough to feel better about leaving it open to the elements.

Meanwhile, there’s a ticking sound coming from the transmission in the Scout in 4th gear under load. When I tap on the clutch pedal it goes away. I’m going to drop it off at the shop who did the work tomorrow so that they can adjust it for me; I’ve got a couple of long-distance trips coming up which are going to require a fully functional transmission that isn’t trying to eat itself, and I want to get it in as soon as possible to diagnose.

Posted on   |   by bill   |   Leave a Comment on Lazy Sunday  |  Posted in Repairs, Travelall

Wiring Up, Wiring Down

Last night I took advantage of some warm weather to finish installing the second relay in Darth for the Sniper control unit. This mainly involved a screwdriver and a lot of small zip ties to clean up the wire runs and get everything out of the way. I’d already built all the wires and heat shrunk the connections, so all I had to do was screw the relay into the metal panel and then screw that back into the firewall. Then the wires got cleaned up and routed along with the existing wiring.

When that was done, I wanted to see if I was getting spark at the plugs, so I pulled the boot off the #3 plug, and… the connector snapped off the wire. These wires are brand-new, so this is really frustrating. I don’t have a spare set in my stores, so I ordered a new one which should be here this evening. The next steps are going to be:

  1. Checking spark at the plugs
  2. Verifying I’ve got the wires connected in the right order from the distributor to the plugs.
  3. Putting a third, transparent fuel filter in between the stock Holley unit and the carburetor to verify we’re getting gas (I can smell it, but need to verify).
Posted on   |   by bill   |   Leave a Comment on Wiring Up, Wiring Down  |  Posted in Fuel Injection, Travelall

Relay

One of the proposed solutions to my EFI cranking problem is to wire a relay into the ignition system which will provide constant power to the Sniper head unit. Apparently it’s pretty common for old vehicles to have a voltage drop between the Run and Start positions in the switch, which the Sniper unit isn’t designed for. My first course of action will be to swap out the ignition switch with one of the spares and see if that makes any difference. It could be something as simple as a poorly made modern switch, which wouldn’t surprise me.

If I can get one of the two to work reliably, then problem solved. If not, the next step will be to wire in a simple relay to the ignition circuit which will provide constant power to the head unit and keep it live. There are two types I can use: a simple 30 amp on/off type like I’m using for the auxiliary fuse panel. The other is an adjustable design with a potentiometer which allows for the amount of time the circuit holds a charge. I don’t need it to stay on for 30 seconds after the switch is turned off, just enough to keep the head unit working.

Posted on   |   by bill   |   Leave a Comment on Relay  |  Posted in Fuel Injection, Travelall

Fuel Injection Update, 4.14

A proper inlet fitting arrived in the mail on Friday and I had to wait until Sunday morning after the rain had passed to do a test fitting on the carburetor. I could only get one in blue, but you’ll never see it under the air cleaner. Thankfully, it cleared the water neck with about a half an inch to spare, so I tightened it down and made a list of preflight checks that had to be done before fired off the engine. First, I replaced the existing positive battery cable with a bigger fatter one. I’ve always wondered if I’m not getting enough cranking amps from the existing cable and decided to improve that situation. This took a little more time than I thought because the starter is in a really lousy position on C series trucks. It’s in between the engine and the frame rail and directly over the front axle so it’s going to be very difficult to swap out if that has to happen.

Then I pulled the plugs and put a borescope down into the cylinders one by one to check for any water in the cylinders. I did this because I drained a bunch of water out of the gas tank and I was afraid I’d pulled a bunch into the engine and possibly done some damage. I found no evidence of water or rust, just dirty piston heads that need to be cleaned up with a long idle and some time on the road.

Next, I had to get a bunch of new gas and get it into the tank, which is harder than it looks because I don’t have an angled funnel. After visits the three different stores I found something that mostly worked and put about 4 gallons of gas in the tank. Interestingly, the first time I turned the key to the accessory position, the fuel gauge worked, but it worked  intermittently since then, so I’ll have to figure that out. With that done and the wiring to the Sniper connected, I cleaned out a jug and set it up in the engine bay to catch fuel.

The first test of the system is to boot it up and program it for the type of engine, cam, idle speed, and a couple of other settings. Then you program it, and do a couple of fuel system flushes to run clean gas to the system. After I did this, I connected the fuel lead up to the carburetor, said a prayer, and cranked it over for the first time.

It didn’t immediately catch, and I noticed that the Sniper control unit had rebooted itself; this should remain on constantly. Doing a little Internet digging I learned that other people have had this problem and it’s got to do with a gap in continuity when turning the key. Walking back through the main points of failure, I tested the jumper to switched power on the fuse panel and verified that was OK. The power leads to the harness were connected correctly. That left the ignition barrel.

This ignition barrel is brand new. I bought it the first year I had the truck, and I believe it’s been wired correctly, but clearly I’m going to have to pull it out of the dash and check it over again. I’ve got two spares I can swap in for testing—the original and the one out of the ’67. I’m going to go out and take some detailed pictures of the ’67 barrel and the one in the truck and compare them, along with the diagram I have from the service manual. I’ve been thinking about pulling that one apart and swapping in one of the new ignition cylinders (I don’t have a key for either one) so that could be a cheap way to test the system, with the added benefit of getting the entire truck to work on one key.

Finally, I checked for spark while I was turning the engine over on the #5 cylinder and didn’t see anything on the indicator, so that’s another thing to check.

Posted on   |   by bill   |   Leave a Comment on Fuel Injection Update, 4.14  |  Posted in Fuel Injection, Travelall