Sunday Afternoon Success

I crossed a couple of things off the list on the Travelall while I had good weather and a clear schedule:

  1. I wired the electric fuel pump into the switched power circuit, so that I stop forgetting to turn it off when I get out of the truck
  2. I moved the vacuum advance hose to the manifold port and plugged up the port on the carburetor where it had been. I had them mixed up. The port I was using is above the throttle blades, which means it only sees vacuum at throttle and doesn’t advance the timing at idle.
  3. I pulled the small metal bracket off the dash and hooked the speedometer/odometer cable back up
  4. With that done, I took her for a ride around the neighborhood, and she ran really well! There were some stumbles at first but when she’d warmed up it smoothed out.
  5. After I got back, I dug through my bins and reinstalled the choke cable. Firing the truck back up, I noticed that she ran worse with the choke open all the way, which makes sense; I’d set the timing with the choke open 1/3 of the way, and that had an effect on the air/fuel mixture.
  6. Then I moved her in the driveway and pulled the door cards off to expose the mounting bolts. After some fussing with the driver’s door, I got it to line up and close well for the first time ever.
  7. I messed with the passenger door for a while until I realized that the top hinge pin is broken—I think jacking the door up and wrenching it back and forth must have snapped the pin. I dug the spare hinge out from the green truck, and cleaned it up.

So next up on the list:

  1. Install the used temperature sender from the green truck’s manifold and see if that works
  2. Pull the passenger fender off, remove the broken hinge, and replace it with the green one (which is now wire-wheeled, etch primed, and painted red)
  3. Put the timing light on it and text/reset the timing again with a warmed up engine and vacuum advance unplugged.
  4. Clean up the insides of the two front doors (rust converter in the channel, vacuum the bottoms out, and spray in some Rust-Stop)
  5. There’s still one dash light missing, which I need to chase down
  6. Grind out any rust on the outer edge/underside of the drip rail, treat it, and paint it
  7. Continue putting bolts in the rear bed floor
  8. Put the metal surround back on the shift boot
  9. Figure out how to wire in a dome light

If I can keep ironing out the problems, my goal is to drive it 12 miles to Brian’s house this weekend for a workday. We’ll see.

Slowflake to EV, Part 1

I’m back at home after working on Brian’s EV project. We put in four solid 10 hour days, pulling the battery pack and power pack out of a Nissan Leaf and then pulling the front clip and 196 four-cylinder engine out of Slowflake, his Scout 800. Getting the major assemblies out of the Leaf was much easier than we both were expecting, apart from not having enough 18 mm wrenches. Working on an EV with only 36,000 miles means all of the bolts came out easily and there was no grease covering every surface. The Scout, on the other hand, was a different story. Slowflake is 100 times cleaner than Peer Pressure, being a relatively recent restomod, but the transfer case was leaking and the transmission was slick with a coating of dirt and oil.

This marks the first time I’ve taken an engine out without the help of veterans, so we were learning as we went. Originally thinking we would split the transmission from the engine and just pull that out, we quickly realized those bolts were inaccessible, and we would have to pull everything out as one unit. That meant we had to get very creative with the cherry picker to lift up and angle the engine under the transmission hump and over the front bumper to remove it.

This process took the better part of a day, and it seemed like every time we thought we’d disconnected all the wires we found one more that had to be removed. But on the evening of the second day, we had the engine out and sitting on some blocks of wood, waiting for the transmission to be split.

The third day started with separating the two and putting the truck back up on a lift to get the transmission reinstalled. That took some doing; we had to get it up off the ground and onto the transmission hoist, which was taller than the cherry picker’s reach. We looked around and Brian said, “why don’t we just use the lift?” Genius. We chained it to the lift and got it onto the hoist, then muscled it into place under the truck. With the crossmember reinstalled it still wanted to fall out, so we steadied it with a block of wood and hooked the rear driveshaft back up.

On the fourth day, we started with something easy and installed a rear disc brake kit Brian had purchased at Nats five years ago. This took two middle-aged men a couple of hours and a lot of head-scratching while we tried to follow lousy directions, but common sense and mechanical aptitude prevailed and we got everything hooked up—and we didn’t have to flare a single brake line, which was some kind of minor miracle. (Looking at this kit gives me an itch to buy and install the front kit on Darth).

Then we got the EV power pack back on the cherry picker and hoisted it into the Scout engine bay to look at the fitment. There’s plenty of room in there—enough that we could probably fit a stack of batteries in front of the motor, if we run out of space in other places.

We were running out of things we could tackle without input from the guy who built the replacement wire harness, which is the first part of the puzzle that needs to be solved. The next thing that we need to do is hook the battery pack up to the power unit to test them both outside the car and verify everything works. Then we separate the brain at the top of the power pack from the inverter/engine combo and have an aluminum plate laser-cut to offset the two so that it fits in the engine bay.

We also need to talk to the guy who manufactures the adapter for the EV engine to the original transmission to see how close they need to be.

After that, we have to crack open the battery pack to see what sizes the individual battery elements are and how many are in there, then figure out where we can tuck them into the nooks and crannies in the Scout. Then we fabricate some aluminum cradle/boxes (thus practicing our TIG welding) for each group, and figure out how to wire them up together.

I set up cameras everywhere and wound up having a ton of footage (338GB) to wade through for YouTube. I’m going to split each day up into its own individual video because Monday’s video timed out at 40 minutes.

I’ve been looking forward to this project for months now, ever since Brian dreamed it up, and it was exactly what I needed to clear my head during this sabbatical. Four solid days of hanging out with my friend, getting our hands dirty, solving problems, and coming up with solutions felt great. I was happy that the skills I’ve learned in the last three years working on Darth Haul have come in so clutch. It feels good to learn and grow and tackle new things that would have been inconceivable five years ago.

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Beauty Shot

I did some quick troubleshooting yesterday with the timing and found that my timing gun was set to 10˚ advanced, so the truck is still way ahead of where it should be. It’s also dieseling when I shut it down, which tells me the timing is way too advanced. On our truck text thread the other day, Bennett gave me some things to check over:

  • Time it with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Done. It seems happiest when it’s waaaay advanced.
  • Are they the correct spark plugs? And gapped? Yes!
  • How’s the points gap? The gap looked good to me, but it’s hard to get a gauge in there with the condenser and mechanical advance in the way.
  • Have you set the dwell? This one I need to do some more research on. Two weeks ago I tested it and found that it was at 26˚ when it should be 30˚, so some adjustment is required there.
  • Does the timing mark jump around when you add throttle?  No, it’s smooth, which is a good sign.
  • Spray carb cleaner around the carb base and ports to test for vacuum leaks.  I didn’t get to this one.
  • Does the timing mark advance as you add throttle (with vacuum plugged) to test mechanical advance. Check—working as designed.

But she’s still not running correctly, so more diagnosis is required. And until I get the mechanical fuel pump fixed and installed, I’m going to need to wire the electric unit into the switched power fuse panel, because I keep forgetting to turn the damned thing off when I shut the truck down.

In retrospect, I’m very happy I decided to remove the Sniper and go back to the basics, because I would have been smashing my head against the wall for months trying to diagnose software when this a mechanical problem to begin with.

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Darth Update

Last weekend, I pulled the Sniper out of the engine bay and tucked it safely away in a box in the garage. The mechanical fuel pump is back on the truck, but it gave me a fight the last couple of days—it wouldn’t prime, and it sits uncomfortably close to the engine mount. Thursday morning I bypassed it with an electric pump and fed the carb directly. Once it fired, the engine tried to run away on me, so I reset the mixture screws to baseline. That’s when I found a huge vacuum leak at the back of the carb. After sealing that up, it settled into a decent idle. I set timing back to about 10°, which feels a lot more reasonable, dropped the hood, and took it for a spin around the block. The choke cable still needs to be hooked back up, but once it warmed up it drove fine. Heavy throttle still causes it to bog, so there’s more tuning ahead, but it’s already a big improvement.

I do want to pull the electric fuel pump off. Now that the lines are primed I want to hook the mechanical back up and see if it will pull fuel; if not, I’m going to pull the trigger on a rebuild kit for the original unit, which fits the truck better in any case.

Meanwhile, I painted the new plywood panel for the rear bed with a marine oil-based primer, countersunk the bolt holes, and rolled on two coats of Raptor Liner front and back. I have some fresh hardware in hand to put it in more permanently, although I have to go back out to get more bolts—the ones they used are an odd thread count for their size.

Lastly, I tore down a spare rear door to salvage the good glass, cleaned the tracks, and swapped it into the red truck. Once I knew the steps, the job was quick and straightforward. While I had the door apart, I pulled the handle, chased out a bit more rust, skimmed it, and gave it a fresh coat of paint.

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Chewbacca, Is That You?

This gem just showed up on Marketplace today, and it hit me in the feels: a 1977 Scout II in Siam Yellow.

This is the spitting image of Chewbacca: matching travel top, steelies with stock hubcaps, and no lift. Inside it’s different in a few ways: it’s got a green bench seat, Rallye wheel, and woodgrain dash panel. Looks like the rockers are absolutely roached out, which means it would need a new tub at the very least. I’m sure the rot is worse underneath.

(pours beer out on the curb for my girl)

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Carburetor 101

I’m spending a lot of time going back and refreshing my carburetor knowledge, which means I’m reading a lot of articles and watching a bunch of videos. I’m going to do a link dump here so I can close a bunch of browser tabs.

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Laboring

Labor Day weekend we had absolutely nothing planned, so I took advantage of free time and mild weather to focus on getting Darth Haul running reliably. Saturday morning, after walking the dog and having breakfast with the girls, I went out and set up all of the diagnostic equipment I’ve collected for carbureted engines: a vintage dwell/tach/volt gauge, a vacuum gauge, and a  timing light. I hooked the boat tank up to the engine and painted marks on the flywheel and timing marks with a white Sharpie, then ran it up to temperature. Messing around with the distributor, I found that it was happiest running at over 20˚ of advance, which is definitely not the way it should be. Anytime I brought the timing back down to a comfortable 10˚ the engine got choppy and began to die.

I put the light on the Scout just to see where the baseline for a smooth-running engine was, and verified that was at around 8˚, which is what I remembered from the service manual. No amount of distributor adjustment could get it to calm down. Puzzled, I zeroed out the carb and adjusted the mixture screws and the idle to get the engine to slow down, and was happy to find that the stumble at acceleration was gone. At idle I was pulling 20 inches of vacuum pressure. With the engine running better (but not timed correctly), I took it for a spin around the block and was happy to find it didn’t stall out once. I also noticed the speedometer isn’t working.

At around this point my Harbor Freight timing light died, so I had to run out and get a replacement. Strangely, it took a while to get the truck to start when I got back; I’d left it at 10˚ or so, and had to adjust it a bunch before it would catch again. I continued messing with the timing but couldn’t resolve the issue. Stumped, I stepped back and cleaned the truck up as much as possible for Cars & Coffee the next morning: I swapped out the old wood floor in the back for the new one, swept out the dust, and cleaned all the windows.

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Sunday morning I made some coffee and ran the truck up in the driveway before taking it for a spin down the road. I pulled in to C&C and parked it next to a sexy Morgan 8, and I was soon joined by Bennett in his Speedster.

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The Travelall was an immediate hit with the crowd; I got a lot of questions about what it is and where I got it, as well as whether I’d driven it a long ways with the boat tank. We had a good turnout, and at one point I was parked across from an Acura NSX and a McLaren.

DSC00089

Back at the house I did a bunch of straightening up in the garage, and David stopped by to pick up a bunch of parts I’d sourced for him at Nats and elsewhere. I was able to pass along the passenger fender and 6-cylinder air cleaner from Ohio, as well as a set of metal door cards I got in Pittsburgh, a pair of escutcheons, and the two eyebrow sections I’d cut off the truck in New York. He was super-happy to take delivery, and headed back to his house to get his truck running after a long pause.

One thing he mentioned to me was that he’d talked to a local spring guy about rebuilding his spring packs, and was quoted a  reasonable price to do so. I was VERY intrigued to hear about this, as my springs are also as flat as a board. This would be an excellent fall-winter project, as it would require jacking the truck onto stands and pulling the springs off.

Sunday afternoon we ran a bunch of errands but after getting back home I put my spare door on the worktable and started breaking it down to pull the glass out. What I wound up having to do was take the black inner surround out, pop the clips holding the felt out, and prep the top half to be able to slide the rails and window out as a unit. Both of the screws holding the lower ends of the rails were, predictably, rusted solid, so I hit them with PBblaster but resolved to cut them out with a death wheel. The only angle grinder I’ve got that fits inside the door is the cheap pneumatic one I got from Harbor Freight, and here I was stopped dead by a leaking/broken moisture filter on the compressor. After picking up some new fittings I repaired that after dinner, and got things ready to start on Monday morning.

A few weeks ago, Bennett had gotten a call from a guy who had a mixture of old pickup parts and passed along his info to me. There were some pictures of C-series stuff that I was partially interested in, so after walking the dog and doing some chores around the house I drove a half an hour north to meet up with him. In his garage he had boxes of assorted parts, which I picked through carefully. I wound up going light: a reproduction MT-118 parts catalog for A, B and C-series trucks, a pair of beautiful black C-series sun visors, an ashtray in great shape, an NOS accelerator pedal, and one mirror assembly to pass on to Tyler out in Frederick.

Between odd jobs around the house, I fired up the compressor to notch the two screws at the bottom of the green door enough to turn with a screwdriver, then gently pulled the rails out to free up the glass. When that was done, it was easy to get the glass out. It’s in good shape, and after I wire-wheeled the metal bracket at the bottom, I taped it off and sprayed it with Rust-Stop. Getting the broken pane out of Darth is going to be a challenge, but now I know what I’m doing, and barring any major rust issues, it should be relatively straightforward to swap the glass in.

I also couldn’t help myself and swapped the black visors into the truck. They’re just a little bit longer than the gold ones that came out of the green truck, so they don’t fit into the clips next to the rearview easily. But they look great!

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